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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I just bought an Amazon Tree Boa, and I have some problems with the heating. My terrarium is 110 cm high, 60 cm wide and 50 cm deep, and only the upper 40 cm is the right temperature. The bottom is way to cold, only around 20 degrees celcius. I have an Exo Terra Intense Basking Spot 100W and a Zoomed Reptisun 5.0. Can someone please help me? I don't know how to add pictures but if someone explains that to me I will add some pics of my terrarium.
Please help me!!!!!:help:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, I will upload some pics.



On the last pic I put a circle around the thermometers. The upper one is at 30.5 degrees C and the lower one is at 22.7 degrees C. Can anyone give me some tips how to raise the ambient temperature some more? I also use the Heat Wave 8W Rainforest Medium from Exo Terra. It's underneath the bedding.
 

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Ok first off, is there a guard round each bulb? This is necessary to stop the boa getting burnt or breaking the bulb.
Glass is crap for holding heat so you may find if you line 3 walls with coco fibre it holds heat in better. It will also make your boa feel more secure.
Heating tall vivs is difficult as well but most people use an ahs heater for this and just have one basking area higher up.

Sent from my ST18i
 

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you would be better with a 3foot wide x 2ft high wooden viv for an atb
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I don't think I need a bulb guard yet, my snake is only about 45 cm long, and the guy from the store where I bought the lamps said that it is not nessesary if the snake does not go to the lamp. She only goes to the Uv-b lamp so that should not be a problem. what is a ahs?
 

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when she does get to the bulb it will be too late
 
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if you are handy then yes - if not I am sure you can get them on ebay or contact reptiles ink on here he may well post one out to you

I would really consider a viv not so tall and wider for the snake though
 

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As Hannah has said - Coco fibre on the sides will help (even just one side changes everything)
It will also take some time for the whole viv to heat up fully and every time the door is open this process will start again.

I have almost exactly the same style viv setup for a different species but the fundamentals are the same.

You may find that if you cover over the glass on the top with something insulatory the temps will also rise.

I ended up putting a heat cable in the soil of the viv so that the bottom was heated but this made the middle of the viv the cold part and that was not very natural, so removed it and stayed with the larger thermal gradient.
ATBs are not 'stupid' when it comes to thermoregulation, unlike some species, and so will not suffer from a broad gradient, as long as the temps they require are always available for them to move to.

Your setup looks very cool but as mentioned above, heating a tall glass viv can be very frustrating and ATBs will do just as well in a horizontally organised viv as well as vertical.

That viv is very cool indeed, I take it you are not in the UK? ;)

Tom


EDIT: You are in Holland I see :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
How thick does the coco fiber has to be? And if I cover the top, the ventilation stops. And no, I'm not in the Uk, I live in the Netherlands.;)
 

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I also agree that it is unlikely the snake will ever get on the hot bulb, but it only takes them to attempt it once and that could be to late. A guard is safer than not.

You may find that if you cover over the glass on the top with something insulatory the temps will also rise.
:2thumb:

The thicker the coco fibre the better the insulation :)

I do have a big love for that style of viv, ENT I belive is the name or style, shame they are not so available in UK.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The vivarium is costomly build, and I decorated the inside myself. I just bought wood and fake plants and stuff. What should I use to cover the top glass?
 

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Just cos the snake is a baby doesn't make it any less arborial, in fact it usually makes it more so.
Keeping reptiles in the netherlands is not a new thing. There are plenty of reptile pet shops there, guards should be available from any good shop.
Failing that there are plenty of online shops, ebay shops that now sell reptile equipment.

THe vivarium is very nice however it should be noted that this kind of viv is hard to heat and ATB's do use floor space as well as perches provided. You should try not to compromise on the floor space.

You could use a thin piece of wood to cover the top. If you drill some small holes in it first to make a ventilated area that would help with the vetilation issue.

An AHS is an advanced heating system. It's essentially a heater with a built in thermostat. They're widely regarded as very good heaters. THis WILL need a guard round it.

Or maybe a ceramic heater will be better that a heat bulb for the hot spot, but again this WILL NEED a guard and a ceramic fitting and heat proof cable as they get VERY hot and can melt plastic holders and normal wires, never mind what it would do to a snake who wraps around it.
 

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the viv is too tall and made of the wrong material - it may be a pain but it is true
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Can I make a guard out of chicken wire? Could I use cork for the insulation of the top glass? I think that if I insulate the sides and the top with cork, I don't need another bulb. And it is not the wrong side, arboreal species like to climb, and if insulate the sides the material won't matter.
 

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Can I make a guard out of chicken wire? Could I use cork for the insulation of the top glass? I think that if I insulate the sides and the top with cork, I don't need another bulb. And it is not the wrong side, arboreal species like to climb,
You can make you're own provided it is strong enough yes. You can insulate with cork as well personally I'd look at what was the cheapest.

And yes arborial species climb but ATB also spend quite a bit of time on the floor, plus snakes don't know how to use a tape measure, they don't care if it's 4ft up in the air or 2ft up. The fact is your heating problems are due the it being so tall and made of glass. A not so high viv would improve the heating and your boa will still be fine, in fact better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
But if I insulate it, and if the temperature is good so she can use the whole viv, then it's only better right? Because she has more room to move.

I have another question. I have my snake since sunday and I forgot to ask when she last ate. I tried to offer her a pinky twice, but she wouldn't take it. When is she going to eat? Is it true that if she is hungry, that she will eat? Or should I try force feeding?
 

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Leave the poor thing alone, you've offered it twice in 2 days is too much.
Snakes will not eat when stressed, moving house is very stressful to a snake.
Leave it alone without handling it or offering food for at least 7 days. Just change the water in a few days. Pestering the snake with food is more likely to put it off.
Do not force feed it, this is a last resort after months of trying other things and only when the snake starts to deteriorate.

What was it eating?
Phone the shop where you bought it and ask them what it ate and when.

After 7 days offer a hot prey item similar to what it was eating before later in the evening, if it doesn't strike feed leave it on a perch over night, preferably cover the viv up.

I would also keep in mind that you may have to move it to a smaller home for now, some neonates can be a little nervous in larger vivs, it might be better in a smaller tub for a while while it grows a bit.
 

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Can I make a guard out of chicken wire? Could I use cork for the insulation of the top glass? I think that if I insulate the sides and the top with cork, I don't need another bulb. And it is not the wrong side, arboreal species like to climb, and if insulate the sides the material won't matter.
the gaps in chicken wire will be too big and the snake will get through holes. I have been keeping arboreal snakes for many years and I can tell you, you really will struggle to provide the proper heat and humidity in a glass viv that is a metre high.
 
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