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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone! :)
I was just wondering is this a good set up and care for a bearded dragon..

Vivexotic LX36- 36 inches long
Exo Terra Basking Spot 50w
Arcadia 30 inch D3 12% UVB fluorescent light
Exo Terra Hide
A 20 inch log
and all extras such as water bowls and feeding bowls.

He will be fed locust every other day with Exo Terra Calcium powder, Veggies such as Spring Greens, Squash and Red Pepper for example every day and water bowl will be refreshed at least once a day with fresh water and purifier. (the water at my house is quite chalky and hard)

The cage will be spot cleaned every day when i get home from school.

There maybe other bits that i have missed out by accident but is this a good set up for him and schedule?

Also any tips you have would be very helpful!

Should I make any changes to
 

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Hi everyone! :)
I was just wondering is this a good set up and care for a bearded dragon..

Vivexotic LX36- 36 inches long
Exo Terra Basking Spot 50w
Arcadia 30 inch D3 12% UVB fluorescent light
Exo Terra Hide
A 20 inch log
and all extras such as water bowls and feeding bowls.

He will be fed locust every other day with Exo Terra Calcium powder, Veggies such as Spring Greens, Squash and Red Pepper for example every day and water bowl will be refreshed at least once a day with fresh water and purifier. (the water at my house is quite chalky and hard)

The cage will be spot cleaned every day when i get home from school.

There maybe other bits that i have missed out by accident but is this a good set up for him and schedule?

Also any tips you have would be very helpful!

Should I make any changes to

How old is the beardie ??

you need a vitiman powder too

And dont use a hide as these can stop the beardie getting the UV it needs
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
he's nine months old :p

and iv'e read in many places that they need a hide as a place to feel safe sometimees?

And yes i know about the mv powder, how often do you need that? once a week?
 

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That viv is way too small....

That's a 3x1 and bearded dragon needs a 4x2

That's less than half the recommended space.
 

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he's nine months old :p

and iv'e read in many places that they need a hide as a place to feel safe sometimees?

And yes i know about the mv powder, how often do you need that? once a week?
Ok lets get to work lol

Have a look at care sheets on here their brilliant for help.

THIS IS HOW I KEEP MY REPS AND MY ADVICE THERE IS A LOT OF DIFFERENT ADVICE OUT THERE

Now a 4ft viv is best as stated.

Bearded Dragons are omnivores meaning they like fruit and vegetables as well as meat (in the way of live food). Younger beardies need more live food then veg as they need the extra protein for their growth, whereas adults need more veg and less live foods for the vitamins. Below you will find a rough break down of how often and what you can feed your dragon.

Live food

There are many prey items you can use a as staple live food for your beardie, these include locusts, crickets and roaches. Prey offered should be of an appropriate size and no bigger than the size of your beardies head. Any uneaten prey should be removed from the enclosure after 10 minutes to avoid stress. It has also been noted that crickets that have been left in a vivarium over night will often ‘nibble’ on your sleeping dragon, causing sores and stress to your lizard. Don’t worry about overfeeding younger dragons too much as all that energy will be put into growing. However if you feel they are looking over weight (i.e they cannot hold up their bellies and they have huge fatty stores in their cheeks) then lessen the amount of food you are supplying them each feed.
Mealworms make a good treat for adult dragons, but should be avoided for any less than 1 years old, as they find the chitilin hard to digest and can cause impaction. You may have heard rumours of mealworms eating their way out of your reptiles, and even coming out of the eyes. I’m not entirely sure if this is based on any truth but in my experience, and talking to other breeders, I am yet to find a case where this has happened. I personally believe this rumour started due to the fact that young dragons feed on mealworms will often poop out what looks like whole mealworms, and quickly pass away afterwards. This is not due to the mealworms eating their way out, but rather the stress on the internal organs to pass such an item.
Wax worms are a fatty treat for your beardie, and also very addictive, so should not be offered too often. These are practically good for female dragons that are breeding, to help put on extra weight. The same goes for pinkies. Not all dragons will readily except a pinkie but again these are good for breeding females as they are fatty and contain lots of calcium in their bones.

Gut loading

You should always gut load your live food before offering them to your beardie, otherwise you are basically feeding them an empty shell. You can either buy ‘gut load’ from the Internet or pet shop and place this in with the prey, or dust some veg with vitamins and place this in with the prey. Leave for between 12-24 hours, to make sure all the prey have eaten some of the veg. By feeding the ‘food’ you also increase how long they live for, saving you money in the long run. Locusts have a much longer gut track than crickets, so will stay healthier for your animal for longer and will keep hold of a lot more essential vitamins. However an ‘empty’ cricket is healthier than an ‘empty’ locust.


Dusting
This is a MUST! They will not get all their calcium and vitamins from their veg and live food alone, and although the UV tubes help they still need additional supplements. Food should be dusted daily. 5 days a week with a multi vitamin (nutrobal and repton are popular choices) and 2 days with PURE calcium. With babies, dust their live food, as they do not readily take fruit and veg. With adults also dust live food on the days offered and the veg the other days.

Fruit and vegetables known to be good for bearded dragons (remember variety is the key);

Apple, apricot, asparagus, bell pepper (red green or yellow), blackberries, blueberries, bok choy, cabbage, cactus leaves, cactus pear, celery (stalk and leaves), cherries, chicory, clover, collard greens, cranberries, cucumber, dandelion leaves, endive, escarole, figs, grapes, grapefruit, kale, leeks, lemon grass, honey dew melon, mango, mustard greens, okra, papaya, parsnips, fresh peas, peaches, pears, pineapple, plums, prunes, pumpkin, radish, raisins, rosemary, seaweed (kelp), spearmint. Squash, strawberries, turnips, turnip greens, watercress, watermelon, zucchini.

Fruit and Vegetables that should only be given to your dragon on occasions as at treat;
Banana (with skin), beans (green, canned, kidney, pinto etc), beetroot, broccoli, brussel sprouts, carrot, cauliflower, hardboiled egg, kiwi, lettuce (red leaf, romaine), olives (de-stoned), orange, parsley, peas (defrosted, cooked), pomegranate, sweet corn, sweet potato, raspberries, tomato

Food items that should never be given to your bearded dragon include;
Avocado, Beef, Bread, Wheat, Chicken, Chives, Eggplant, Garlic, Lettuce (iceburg, loose leaf), Mushrooms, Onion, Pork, Rhubarb, Fish, Spaghetti, Spinach, Cheese, Yoghurt,


How Often Should I feed my Bearded Dragon?
A lot of people struggle with this one! Baby bearded dragons need the protein found in crickets and locusts and do not need as much veg, whereas adults need veg more and less live foods. Below is a rough guide to how often you should feed your Bearded Dragon;
0-3 Months - Live foods should be offered 7 days a week and veg 1-2 times a week.
3-6 Months - Live foods should be offered 6 days and week and veg 2-3 times a week.
6-8 Months - Live food should be offered 5 days a week and veg 3-4 times a week.
8-12 months - Live foods should be offered 4 days a week and veg 4-5 times a week.
12-18 months - Live food should be offered 3 days a week and veg 5-6 times a week.
18 months plus - Live foods should be offered 2-3 days a week and veg 6-7 times a week.

Remember that this is only a rough outline. I personally leave veg in for my baby bearded dragons all the time, changing for fresh every other day. Make sure that the items are cut up very fine so not to be trapped in their throats
 

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he's nine months old :p

and iv'e read in many places that they need a hide as a place to feel safe sometimees?

And yes i know about the mv powder, how often do you need that? once a week?
Loose the hide as beardies need constant access to uv during the 12 hr period that it is on.
Regarding the calcium powder i do mine 5 days on d3 i think its called and weekends on nutrabal.
Also have a look at Hadesdragons website and read through their care sheets as it seems you need plenty of info...
 

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That viv is way too small....

That's a 3x1 and bearded dragon needs a 4x2

That's less than half the recommended space.
Based on the measurments Imginy gave think you should consider a different rep

Also have a look at Hadesdragons website and read through their care sheets as it seems you need plenty of info...

Actually the care sheet on the bottom of Imginy posts is rather good i had a look last night at it
 

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hi,

a 3ft viv would be too small I have the vivexotic ex48(48x24x24 and I was told it was bare minimum, Still I would like to give my beardy a bigger viv as he is very active.

A 60w in a dome and on a dimming thermostat is what most people use.

A 42" UVB tube is good with a 4ft viv, make sure you get a reflector as they double the light output.

Logs are great as beardys love climbing also try and add a few stones in

Getting a hide is debatable, personly I wouldnt as I found that my beardy would just hide all day and not bask, so I would say no to one



As for feeding your schedule is good, but I would feed it crickets instead of locusts, as crickets tend to be cheaper and you get more in a pack. Although you can sometimes feed it locusts or meal worms to give a bit of variaty

this is what my viv looks like



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I know people are trying to help but i don't need care sheets given to me i just need some helpfull tips and a bit of advice from owners and not just given another load of care sheets about stuff i already know.
I'm not trying to be rude but need people to give me usefull information.
 

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I know people are trying to help but i don't need care sheets given to me i just need some helpfull tips and a bit of advice from owners and not just given another load of care sheets about stuff i already know.
I'm not trying to be rude but need people to give me usefull information.
The reason people are probably recommending care sheets is because you are asking if its ok to put a bearded dragon in a viv that only has 3 sqaure feet of floor space.

You say you have read lots of care sheets but normally the first thing on every care sheet is the viv size and they will say you need a minimum of 8 sqaure feet (4x2)
Caring for a Bearded Dragon - Hades Dragons UK

Any way this is the sort of thing you need
Reptilekeeping The Online Reptile Shop, Selling Livefoods Reptile Accessories and Equipment.
 

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Everything else on your list looks good but if you use a water bowl make sure its not very big.

Also as other have said you need nutrobal as well as calcium.

Also an infrared thermoter is a must for setting up basking temps (£8 ebay).

Oh and live food should be everyday and not just one thing mix it up
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yep I know about the temps and thermometers but i only listed main things for the viv :) And Yes variation between the live food I will need to do anyway as locusts are quite expensive so will probably use crickets and a few meal worms as well.
 
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