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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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hi all, my bearded dragon has kept his leg inverted inwards ever since we got him, we took him to the vet and he said that it seems like a calcium deficiency, it has been weeks of feeding him grasshoppers dusted with calcium and it hasn't improved at all, so I'm posting here with the hopes that someone can help
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
it is a nature glow uvb (20w) and we havent replaced it since we have only had him for a few weeks
 

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it is a nature glow uvb (20w) and we havent replaced it since we have only had him for a few weeks
it is a nature glow uvb (20w) and we havent replaced it since we have only had him for a few weeks
Hi, I have no idea what a "nature glow" UVB bulb/tube is, can you either say what % the UVB is or give me a link to the product, also say what the ambient and basking surface temps plus humidity range are, and how you measure those, and a few pics of the whole enclosure might be helpful.
 

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Hi, I have no idea what a "nature glow" UVB bulb/tube is, can you either say what % the UVB is or give me a link to the product, also say what the ambient and basking surface temps plus humidity range are, and how you measure those, and a few pics of the whole enclosure might be helpful.
This^

It sounds like an inadequate bulb, probably why the animal is struggling
 

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I've just had a quick look and can only find one seller that stocks this brand bulb. By the looks of it, its a cheap own brand type tube, probably purchased form Alibaba, and so the output is a completely unknown. Without a Solarmeter, you would never know what output you are getting and how to setup the enclosure.

This is likely to have resulted in MBD, so a visit to your Exotics Vet will be in order. I would also highly recommend swapping the UVB out to a better brand, such as Arcadia or Zoo Med. I'm guessing this is a T8 and so you already have a T8 starter. This isn't a problem, you can get T8 lamps from Arcadia, you'll most likely want the 12%


However, in order to properly advise and get your enclosure set up right, it may be helpful to get measurements of your vivarium. Probably worth going over the heating too, as there could be issues with that as well, if you have gained any equipment or knowledge from the same place your tube came from.

It may also be worth looking at adding the Arcadia RevitaliseD3 into your supplementation routine too. This will give a Vitamin D3 boost whilst your vet diagnoses and treats your Bearded Dragon.


Right now, expedience is critical. Get that Vet visit booked and the lighting changed ASAP to prevent further issues. MBD cannot be totally cured, but it can be stopped in its tracks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've just had a quick look and can only find one seller that stocks this brand bulb. By the looks of it, its a cheap own brand type tube, probably purchased form Alibaba, and so the output is a completely unknown. Without a Solarmeter, you would never know what output you are getting and how to setup the enclosure.

This is likely to have resulted in MBD, so a visit to your Exotics Vet will be in order. I would also highly recommend swapping the UVB out to a better brand, such as Arcadia or Zoo Med. I'm guessing this is a T8 and so you already have a T8 starter. This isn't a problem, you can get T8 lamps from Arcadia, you'll most likely want the 12%


However, in order to properly advise and get your enclosure set up right, it may be helpful to get measurements of your vivarium. Probably worth going over the heating too, as there could be issues with that as well, if you have gained any equipment or knowledge from the same place your tube came from.

It may also be worth looking at adding the Arcadia RevitaliseD3 into your supplementation routine too. This will give a Vitamin D3 boost whilst your vet diagnoses and treats your Bearded Dragon.


Right now, expedience is critical. Get that Vet visit booked and the lighting changed ASAP to prevent further issues. MBD cannot be totally cured, but it can be stopped in its tracks.
It should be worthy to mention that he has had this from day 1, the uvb tube says that it is a 10.0 from Heritage, the ambient temp is controlled to be at 37.5 during the day and 21 during the night, we have two thermometers in the vivarium, one close to the ceramic heat lamp and another on the other end, they both show that the temp. is 37.5
350357
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It should be worthy to mention that he has had this from day 1, the uvb tube says that it is a 10.0 from Heritage, the ambient temp is controlled to be at 37.5 during the day and 21 during the night, we have two thermometers in the vivarium, one close to the ceramic heat lamp and another on the other end, they both show that the temp. is 37.5 View attachment 350357 View attachment 350358
Hi, the ambient temps are far too high if that`s what they are throughout the tank, you MUST have a cooler side @ approx. 21 to 24c during the day, also you don`t say what the basking surface temp is and how you measure that, you don`t mention the humidity range, either?
Can you give details of the type and wattage of the basking bulb (personally I would remove the wire cage immediately, if the dragon grabs hold it could cause a serious burn). The UVB tube needs to be closer to the basking bulb so the animal gets the benefit of both at the same time. It`s possible these things have caused the health problem. I can`t see clearly but I get the impression the gauges are analogue, in which case they might be as much as 15% out, you must always use digital.
I do NOT advise using supplementary D3, studies have been completed that show it is of little to no benefit regarding the blood serum levels in these animals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi, after double checking, the temperature in the right side is 24c as far as the surface temperature i measured it with a digital thermometer and it is 31.5c. The ceramic bulb is this one https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0772GB4NB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1, the basking bulb is set to maintain a temperature of 37.5c using an inkbird ITC-306, up until now, I had no clue that humidity was important and I have ordered hygrometer https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermoPro-...keywords=thermopro+tp49&qid=1619610602&sr=8-5
 

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Your basking surface temp could do with going up a little, to around 40C, but as everyone has mentioned, that UVB tube needs replacing as a matter of urgency as that will be contributing to the issue.

@murrindindi do you have any links to your sources? I'd love to read them. My advice was based off people like Fran Baines suggesting the same, especially when animals are suffering MBD and also under T8 lighting. As far as I'm aware, dietary D3 does improve the blood serum levels, but shouldn't be required in a healthy animal that has an adequate UVB source. In this case, the animal looks to have MBD so adding dietary D3 in small doses will only improve matters until the Vet can properly diagnose and treat it. I'm happy to be shown I am wrong of course.
 
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Also, I would recommend changing from a Ceramic Heat Emitter to a Halogen Lamp. Ceramics are better off used for ambient temperatures, not basking temps. Due to them only releasing IRc, Ceramics do not properly warm the body deep enough, and so are inefficient. Halogens use IRa and IRb which penetrates deep into tissue whilst also warming he blood, which is carried around the body to efficiently heat all over.

Heat plays an important factor in the D3 cycle, and so if the dragon is under heated and using a poor quality UVB output, it will definitely have an effect on its ability to assimilate calcium, which can cause MBD
 

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The UVB will depend on either the current equipment you have, or if you want to just upgrade to the Pro T5, the size of your enclosure, such as length, height and also take into consideration the distance between the UV tube to the highest platform you have. If you tell us that, I'm sure we can advise.

This halogen will be great though


I assume your inkbird is a dimming thermostat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No it is not, it just has a day/night cycle instead what we do is keep the rooms' dimmer light on for about an hour after everything switches off.
 

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That's a good size, you've obviously wanted to do the best from the start, its a shame you've ended up with a poor tube. If you're wanting to look at the Pro T5 system, which would be ideal here, you will want the 39w 12%


The inkbird is a thermostat, so it will be controlling the ceramic by one of three methods,

Dimming
Pulse
On/Off

Pulse and Dimming are generally used for Ceramics to maintain the temp but if you put a Halogen on a Pulse thermostat, you will get a disco light. You'll need to check what type of thermostat it is. If its Dimming, you can easily swap straight over to a halogen. If its pulse, before you swap, you would need to look at getting a dimming thermostat too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I currently have an inkbird itc-306 and it turns off when the sensor reaches a certain temperature so what would that make it?
 
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