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inkbird itc-306
Having a read, that sounds like an On/Off thermostat, so you would need to change that too I'm afraid.

(I genuinely hate giving news like that, as you've probably gone to a source you thought you could trust and now you're being told totally different and don't know who to trust)
 

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Its no trouble. This is a basic one,


Or this one is more expensive but it has day and night functions, so it'll drop the temps over night, etc.

 

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sin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/URL], the basking bulb is set to maintain a temperature of 37.5c using an inkbird ITC-306, up until now, I had no clue that humidity was important and I have ordered hygrometer https://www.amazon.co.uk/ThermoPro-...keywords=thermopro+tp49&qid=1619610602&sr=8-5
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Hi again, the products you`ve linked to are fine, obviously you`ll need to make sure the ceramic heat emitter is of suitable wattage, they are perfectly acceptable to use in order the ambient (air) temps don`t drop too low, personally I would not let them fall below 18c even though the dragon would tolerate it (19 to 21c is fine, especially during the night).
You cannot accurately measure the basking surface temp with the thermometer even if it`s digital with a probe, it`s only reading air temps, you urgently need an IR (infrared) Temp-gun (I`ll put a link up) they are quite cheap but very reliable.
At this moment you/we have no idea what the basking surface temps are (they need to be between approx. 38 to 45c) you`ll get a range by ensuring the basking site is large enough, that allows the dragon to choose which area it wants to bask on.
The humidity should range between approx. 30 to 60%+, the lower figure will be around the basking site, the higher in the hides/burrows.


 

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Your basking surface temp could do with going up a little, to around 40C, but as everyone has mentioned, that UVB tube needs replacing as a matter of urgency as that will be contributing to the issue.

@murrindindi do you have any links to your sources? I'd love to read them. My advice was based off people like Fran Baines suggesting the same, especially when animals are suffering MBD and also under T8 lighting. As far as I'm aware, dietary D3 does improve the blood serum levels, but shouldn't be required in a healthy animal that has an adequate UVB source. In this case, the animal looks to have MBD so adding dietary D3 in small doses will only improve matters until the Vet can properly diagnose and treat it. I'm happy to be shown I am wrong of course.


This is one of the studies.. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&r...na_vitticeps&usg=AOvVaw0uPY6oONEfEtoO9H8v8W7A
 

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the basking bulb
You need to position the bulb over the basking object which needs to be something solid such as a flat piece of stone or tile which will hold the heat, the hammock is virtually useless for that purpose, I would remove it. The flood beam halogens can be fitted with a dimmer switch which makes adjusting the surface temp much easier, alternatively you can raise/lower bulb or basking object. The UVB tube MUST be directly over the basking site, not fixed to the back wall because the light could shine directly into the lizard`s eyes. These are quite simple "fixes".
Does the enclosure have a solid top?
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
No, the entire enclosure is custom made, and the top is split into two parts, the bigger access point and a smaller side panel where the wiring is run
 

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No, the entire enclosure is custom made, and the top is split into two parts, the bigger access point and a smaller side panel where the wiring is run

In that case it will be virtually impossible to stabilise either the temps or humidity, it`s FAR easier to control those with a solid top because it`s giving you a "self contained" environment, you would need to check temps and humidity again if you do that. If it were my enclosure I would use a piece of 3/4 inch thick plywood sealed with several coats of water based varnish, cut into two pieces along the length and fixed together with hinges, then you could attach both UVB tube and basking light directly to the back portion and lift the front ""half" for access. Does that make sense to you? Bear in mind most timber merchants will cut the plywood to size for free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes it does, but would the UVB tube have to be at the very back, with the halogen above the basking spot? also I have some questions regarding the halogen bulb, how far and well does the heat spread from it? Also, during the night would the lamp turn itself on with the cheaper thermostat? I can work around this by adding a 24 hour switch where the halogen will be on at day and off at night, where the ceramic will take over. Would this be good?
 

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Your UVB should run roughly central along the viv, and overlap with the Halogen. In the case of having a lid as above, it wont hurt to have it toward the back a bit, so long as the UV overlaps the halogen, ensureing the basking area has both heat and UV on it.

With the cheaper thermostat,you will definitely need to get a timer. I use Alexa timers mostly, as they're easy to readjust at daylight savings, etc.
 

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There is a High Range stat actually, that might be better for your needs:

Have you managed to speak to your exotics Vet yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
No I have not, what should I say to him? Last time we went he said that we could do an x-ray for close to £200
 

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As has been said throughout, a vet visit should be your priority. Tell him what has been discussed here. You think you were sold inappropriate UVB and explain the symptoms. The vet will do the rest. Unfortunately, the cost is just part and parcel of owning animals. If the store you bought the equipment from specifically advised it for your reptile, and your vet can report that it directly contributed to the issues at hand, you may have a case to recoup vet fees from them. But it depends how much evidence you have of that.
 

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No I have not, what should I say to him? Last time we went he said that we could do an x-ray for close to £200
I`m a bit confused, you said you`ve only had the dragon a few weeks, the vet suspects it might be MBD, now you`ve been told by other members the probable cause is the cheap UVB tube, but from our discussions you had no idea about basking surface temps or the humidity, in which case they probably had a detrimental effect on health? It`s strange that if the lizard has had the foot problem much of the time you`ve had it (weeks) that the UVB tube is responsible?
I agree that you need to get the problem investigated by a reputable vet asap, if you don`t it`s quite likely the condition will worsen, perhaps seriously.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Hi all, a bit of an update, most of the things have come, including the hygrometer, and it turns out that it is 20% humid,
 
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