Joined
·
8,746 Posts
i made this design several years ago now, i made a polypropylene version (this version is the "deluxe" metal version) and used it for a few years i believe, it was used for burrowers and regular snakes, it never caused a problem, the burrowing use also included about 4" of moist coco/moss mix piled on top, it worked perfectly even in this scenario.
the version i built and used was slightly different, i had the stat probe fixed to the "sitting surface" this tweaked design places it inside to simplify the look. one *important* point this unit has to be calibrated due to the stats probe position, what i mean is a thermometer probe has to be place on the surface and the the stat gradually increased till u get ur 90of for example, ur stat will almost certainly not show 90 on the dial/display, it will be close but not exact, hence the calibration, simply because of mat variation, the material between the probe surface and the bottom of the snake.
so lets begin, this example is a 17x11 version, just because, u can use any size mat or use multiples, i recommend only habistat mats with this design, thats all iv used with it and i think their the best available, im not a fan of the cheaper "printed" type mats.
the mat, i often trim the clear plastic edge back some to get the smallest unit possible it is not necessary
the bottom sheet, cut to size from aluminium warehouse (https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/aluminium-sheet-cut-to-order) i recommend 1.2mm 6082 as it has excellent corrosion resistance
edged with 20x10mm alu flat bar its stuck to the sheet using 3m double sided tape, make sure u get the position right as its a very very firm attachment,
the flat bar is attached/3m to the bottom sheet only, the top sheet is left removable for servicing (https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/aluminium/flat-bar/page/2) this is principally a spacer and fixing edge
plus 10mm underfloor insulation (Electric Underfloor Heating Insulation Boards 6mm & 10mm XPS | eBay)
as above plus cutouts, one square for the mats block, the thicker block side goes down, the channel is for the stats probe, it is towards the mats edge to allow a higher possible temperature, ie if the probe is in the middle of the mat it will max out sooner than a probe placed near the edge, a higher temp can be brought down, a temp thats not high enough and maxed out on the stat is no good to anyone (again this is why calibration is important)
plus mat, the stats probe is underneath in the channel cut out
top sheet added, the drilled holes are at the flat bars midpoint/5mm, they are of the size necessary for the chicago screws, the best method for drilling the holes is to have the complete unit clamped together with edges square and flush, then simply drill thru the entire piece, top sheet-spacer-bottom sheet, then it makes no difference if ur position is off, all the holes will be in line with each other.
close up of the mat cable the probes cable exiting, iv sketched a hole as the exit point, but it would be far far easier if a section was just removed from the flat bar length
the entire assembly is held closed with chicago screws/binding posts (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=chicago+screws&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15) this design would use 9mm, this allows the unit to be servicable, u can use more than pictured
as above, closer view
internal design
when i designed this i really wanted it to be thin, ie take up little room and be hidden under substrate, i wanted it to be servicable, with the unit pushed up to a cage side (or back) the cables exiting the unit can exit the cage via a hole at floor height, so the idea was to get heating, to get control, but with none of it visible or even in the cage, all thats in the cage is the unit, the snake is unable to interfere with any component, i have also used it in large tubs.
all the above material (inc the chicago screws) can be replaced with plastic material choices, i have made some with polypropylene sheet, i used thicker polypropylene as the edge spacer, i used plastic chicago screws, the metal version is just nicer looking, the metal is a better conductor of heat, its very easy to sterilize. u can also combine materials ie alu sheet with a polypro spacer would be ideal, iv used hardwood as the spacer but i dont recommend that in moist caging.
is it cheap? i doubt it (though with postage and material minimums it is cost effective the more u make), i never made it to save money i designed it to solve a problem, heatmats inside a cage that are protected from and for the snake. the design above is 12.4mm thick, that isnt bad even if i do say so myself
(its actually the stats probe that determines the overall unit thickness)
as i said this version needs calibration simply because the probe is internal, and may not experience the same temps as the outer surface, once calibrated its essentially set and forget. i have tested this design extensively, the problems i found were minor and easily fixed, and those fixes are included above.
use as you will : victory:
if anyone wants the sketchup file to pick apart and modify id be happy to email it
rgds
ed
ps polypro sheets on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...olypro.TRS0&_nkw=polypropylene+sheet&_sacat=0
the version i built and used was slightly different, i had the stat probe fixed to the "sitting surface" this tweaked design places it inside to simplify the look. one *important* point this unit has to be calibrated due to the stats probe position, what i mean is a thermometer probe has to be place on the surface and the the stat gradually increased till u get ur 90of for example, ur stat will almost certainly not show 90 on the dial/display, it will be close but not exact, hence the calibration, simply because of mat variation, the material between the probe surface and the bottom of the snake.
so lets begin, this example is a 17x11 version, just because, u can use any size mat or use multiples, i recommend only habistat mats with this design, thats all iv used with it and i think their the best available, im not a fan of the cheaper "printed" type mats.
the mat, i often trim the clear plastic edge back some to get the smallest unit possible it is not necessary

the bottom sheet, cut to size from aluminium warehouse (https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/aluminium-sheet-cut-to-order) i recommend 1.2mm 6082 as it has excellent corrosion resistance

edged with 20x10mm alu flat bar its stuck to the sheet using 3m double sided tape, make sure u get the position right as its a very very firm attachment,
the flat bar is attached/3m to the bottom sheet only, the top sheet is left removable for servicing (https://www.aluminiumwarehouse.co.uk/aluminium/flat-bar/page/2) this is principally a spacer and fixing edge

plus 10mm underfloor insulation (Electric Underfloor Heating Insulation Boards 6mm & 10mm XPS | eBay)

as above plus cutouts, one square for the mats block, the thicker block side goes down, the channel is for the stats probe, it is towards the mats edge to allow a higher possible temperature, ie if the probe is in the middle of the mat it will max out sooner than a probe placed near the edge, a higher temp can be brought down, a temp thats not high enough and maxed out on the stat is no good to anyone (again this is why calibration is important)

plus mat, the stats probe is underneath in the channel cut out

top sheet added, the drilled holes are at the flat bars midpoint/5mm, they are of the size necessary for the chicago screws, the best method for drilling the holes is to have the complete unit clamped together with edges square and flush, then simply drill thru the entire piece, top sheet-spacer-bottom sheet, then it makes no difference if ur position is off, all the holes will be in line with each other.

close up of the mat cable the probes cable exiting, iv sketched a hole as the exit point, but it would be far far easier if a section was just removed from the flat bar length

the entire assembly is held closed with chicago screws/binding posts (https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=chicago+screws&LH_PrefLoc=1&_sop=15) this design would use 9mm, this allows the unit to be servicable, u can use more than pictured

as above, closer view


internal design


when i designed this i really wanted it to be thin, ie take up little room and be hidden under substrate, i wanted it to be servicable, with the unit pushed up to a cage side (or back) the cables exiting the unit can exit the cage via a hole at floor height, so the idea was to get heating, to get control, but with none of it visible or even in the cage, all thats in the cage is the unit, the snake is unable to interfere with any component, i have also used it in large tubs.
all the above material (inc the chicago screws) can be replaced with plastic material choices, i have made some with polypropylene sheet, i used thicker polypropylene as the edge spacer, i used plastic chicago screws, the metal version is just nicer looking, the metal is a better conductor of heat, its very easy to sterilize. u can also combine materials ie alu sheet with a polypro spacer would be ideal, iv used hardwood as the spacer but i dont recommend that in moist caging.
is it cheap? i doubt it (though with postage and material minimums it is cost effective the more u make), i never made it to save money i designed it to solve a problem, heatmats inside a cage that are protected from and for the snake. the design above is 12.4mm thick, that isnt bad even if i do say so myself
as i said this version needs calibration simply because the probe is internal, and may not experience the same temps as the outer surface, once calibrated its essentially set and forget. i have tested this design extensively, the problems i found were minor and easily fixed, and those fixes are included above.
use as you will : victory:
if anyone wants the sketchup file to pick apart and modify id be happy to email it
rgds
ed
ps polypro sheets on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...olypro.TRS0&_nkw=polypropylene+sheet&_sacat=0