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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
so the next part, the upper cage, is keeper/species dependent, basically how high do you want it, the usual standard is 600mm, but the great thing about making ur own caging is the standard is what you say it is, just remember the higher you go the more it will affect temperature at floor level ie lower temps
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
+walls, you can have a solid substrate barrier at the front instead of clear acrylic.

still to go, ceiling with heat mod and hinged door
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
the only "heat panel" available in the UK is the 75w reptile radiator by habistat and I did model it because u can still find them but mostly only 2nd hand, alternatives are ceramics (trough, bulb) deep heat projectors by arcadia which is more suited to lower caging in my opinion, I don't recommend them for beginners, and halogen bulbs of various wattages, so I modeled a basic 2mm protective aluminium plate and a basic ceramic fitting, avoid plastic fittings.

you can arrange the cage furniture around the heat, or arrange the heat around a layout u particularly like
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
almost done
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
and thats it, simple acrylic door, you can also use glass but keep all tolerances tight, ie keep the door square, use 5mm bolts for 5mm holes. to attach the acrylic use 3m tape or screws, for glass use a bead of silicone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
the cost can be cut considerably by using foamex, 5mm for walls, 10mm for floors

so that's a simple design from scratch to finish
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 · (Edited)
this is a much simpler design, much less metal work but a rivet gun and pop rivets are essential. its a very easy technique to learn. I consider a spring punch essential in marking out. pick ur hole placement, in this design im using 15mmx15mm 90'degree angle, so 15mm angle + 10mm plastic flute (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-Co...n-Sheet-Plastic/401019289082?var=670547438932) = 25mm which is the tube thickness, spring punch the very centre of your mark, this stops the drill bit drifting when drilling. use a metal cut drill bit @1mm larger than the rivet and drill ur hole. if you can't find large enough headed rivets use washers.

in the design I drew 2 nuts per 15mm angle because I was too lazy to do it accurately, ie the 15mm x 15mm angle is riveted to the tubing, and the fluted board is attached to the angle, and therefore the frame, by nylon nuts & bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
the placement of the angle face is determined by how you want ur panels placed, ie how many 15mm riveted angles do u want to see inside the cage. do you want a cleaner inside look (my preference) or a cleaner outside panel look. the panels are 10mm White Corrugated Fluted Board for the walls and *floors but there would need to be a mid supportive *tube, or attach *5mm flat bar on the Longside, midpoint, to support the substrates weight and prevent the panel from deforming.

PS all the pics iv posted, all the way up, can be triple clicked to get the original pic size, the detail is better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
your too kind, the issue I have after using sketchup a while is I keep trying to drag browser window contents about like in sketchup :), its so annoying.

rgds
ed
 
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