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you could drill a hole in the back where the lead of the heat pad doubles up againt the wall, then take off the plug and thread the wire through. ive done that with my snakes and have the pad burried with about 2 inches of substrate.

oh and controlled by a thermostat
 

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Hi Trice

because of the thickness of the timber you would want to put the heatmat inside on the bottom to one end, also you should tape it down with aluminium tape around the edge's, so nothing can leak under it or get under it.
the thermostat probe should be place ontop of the heatmat so you get a true reading of the heatmat output, most people make the mistake of placing the probe on the wall of the viv then wonder why their snake always sits at the other end. ie the heat mat will be to hot although the ambient temperature at that end would seem fine.


Paul.
 

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thanks for answering my question! What type of wood, would be perfect for a project such as this?
 

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im building my own viv and im using conti board from my local b and q warehouse, not cheap but makes a sturdy viv at the end of the day
 

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A good quality melamine faced type of timber board is ok

mohogany is more expensive and oak even more, but because of their density the timber will last Much longer.

If you do build out of melamin faced chipboard then i would advise to get a piece of 12mm perspex cut for the bottom, make sure it fits nice and snug, seal all joints in the viv with aquarium selent at least 3 days before any reptile is housed.
the perpex will stop any spills from ruining the bottom.


Paul.
 
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