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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've put this here because not many people look in the equipment section and the response is not as good, and its for snakes aswell.
I am currently rebuilding all of my vivs, I am using dimmerstats and lights atm but have to turn them off at night (i dont believe the red bulb theory, my royal wont eat with red lights on 24/7). when the vivs are finished i want to change to CHE's for my royals and Boa and leave them on all the time, can i use a Habistat Dimmerstat with CHE's or do i need pulseproportional stats?
Thanks.
 

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Well I have been using a Microclimate B1 Dimmer for the last few weeks ,
on two viv's as well . Temp probe on BRB viv , and separate temp ( independant ) on the King viv ...absolutely no problem ....ya just need to get the temps ' balanced ' as it were . granted I use a 'spot' with King and a Ceramic in BRB ...so IMHO it can and more importantly , is done .

Max load is 600 watt so ya could in theory add more , but I wont .
 

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It makes no dirrerence as long as the stat can handle the power rating of the CHE.

At least with a dimmer you can change to a light if need be.

Just a quick question:

With your red light; Is it a proper red glass light for reptiles or is it a red painted (and not even completely painted) spot light bulb from B&Q??

Only reason I ask is that I used to use a B&Q one but swapped to a proper one and the difference in colour is massive. A B&Q light tends to emit pink light (a mixture of red and a lot of white) where a proper one emits a deep red light.

Obviously the snakes can see all the white light, so if on 24 - 7 will have an affect on feeding.
 

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I like the pulse proportionals - I'm currently updating all mine to PPs - I've found the temps are much more stable and vary very little (only within 2-4 degrees) when I check with the min/max in/out stat.
 

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Razaiel said:
I like the pulse proportionals - I'm currently updating all mine to PPs - I've found the temps are much more stable and vary very little (only within 2-4 degrees) when I check with the min/max in/out stat.
I use the dimmers and get fluctiations of +/- 1 degree at the most in the warm end. Cool end can vary depending on room temp and can fluctuate from 78 degrees +/- 2 degrees.

I don't think there is much difference in accuracy between a dimmer and a pulse. Just you can use a dimmer on light emitting equipment too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
carl24bpool said:
It makes no dirrerence as long as the stat can handle the power rating of the CHE.

At least with a dimmer you can change to a light if need be.

Just a quick question:

With your red light; Is it a proper red glass light for reptiles or is it a red painted (and not even completely painted) spot light bulb from B&Q??

Only reason I ask is that I used to use a B&Q one but swapped to a proper one and the difference in colour is massive. A B&Q light tends to emit pink light (a mixture of red and a lot of white) where a proper one emits a deep red light.
the light is a fire glow bulb, it is red glass with no clear bits.
thanks for other replies.

Obviously the snakes can see all the white light, so if on 24 - 7 will have an affect on feeding.
 

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markhill said:
carl24bpool said:
It makes no dirrerence as long as the stat can handle the power rating of the CHE.

At least with a dimmer you can change to a light if need be.

Just a quick question:

With your red light; Is it a proper red glass light for reptiles or is it a red painted (and not even completely painted) spot light bulb from B&Q??

Only reason I ask is that I used to use a B&Q one but swapped to a proper one and the difference in colour is massive. A B&Q light tends to emit pink light (a mixture of red and a lot of white) where a proper one emits a deep red light.
the light is a fire glow bulb, it is red glass with no clear bits.
thanks for other replies.

Obviously the snakes can see all the white light, so if on 24 - 7 will have an affect on feeding.
And.....?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
lol. i meant to put that bulbs are fireglow red ,they are red glass not painted.no white bits show.
 

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markhill said:
lol. i meant to put that bulbs are fireglow red ,they are red glass not painted.no white bits show.
Strange if it affects our Royal then??

Could it possibly be down to no night time drops then???? Since when you unplug them your vivs will cool.

If it's not the drop then what can it be??? I always thought that snakes can't see red light.

Can anybody confirm this and even better back it up with a reference to prove it once and for all. I have stareted a thread to hopefully find out:

http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=269072#269072

thanks
 
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