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Discussion Starter #1
Hi!

Just wondering, 'cuz I managed to fail the incubation of my gargoyle eggs. It was my first try at it, so I recon I'll get it next time.


Now, I wonder, are there any tips and tricks to get them breeding again?
The clutch I failed to hatch (I checked them, they had started to crumble, and inside there was only like powder-ish, yellow/white stuff) was laid about 3 weeks ago. Maybe a little longer than 3 weeks, but not as long as 4.

I keep it pretty humid in the gargoyle viv. (70-85%)
The heat is stable at about 23-26 celsius.
The size of the viv is 60x60x90cm, 90 being the tall side.
It has a rocky background that they can climb easily.
Also have a humidbox for them, covered by branches, and this is also where I want her to lay the eggs. In the humid box I have vermiculite, and the humidity I recon is about 90-100%

Last time she had laid the eggs deep in the bedding, I use coconut husk that is pretty wet, so I guess the eggs had been laying there for a week, but they were nice in shape, and white, and had veins when I lit them, but they got worse and worse after putting them in the incubator, I guess this is due to low humidity(?).


If ya'll need answers to anything more about the geckos or habitat, then please let me now, I really want to get this going and be able to produce my own gargoyles.
As a newb on this, I also hope to get some good trips and tricks about anything breeding gargoyle geckos!


Cheers,
Chris
 

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Hi!

Just wondering, 'cuz I managed to fail the incubation of my gargoyle eggs. It was my first try at it, so I recon I'll get it next time. image

Now, I wonder, are there any tips and tricks to get them breeding again?
The clutch I failed to hatch (I checked them, they had started to crumble, and inside there was only like powder-ish, yellow/white stuff) was laid about 3 weeks ago. Maybe a little longer than 3 weeks, but not as long as 4.

I keep it pretty humid in the gargoyle viv. (70-85%)
The heat is stable at about 23-26 celsius.
The size of the viv is 60x60x90cm, 90 being the tall side.
It has a rocky background that they can climb easily.
Also have a humidbox for them, covered by branches, and this is also where I want her to lay the eggs. In the humid box I have vermiculite, and the humidity I recon is about 90-100%

Last time she had laid the eggs deep in the bedding, I use coconut husk that is pretty wet, so I guess the eggs had been laying there for a week, but they were nice in shape, and white, and had veins when I lit them, but they got worse and worse after putting them in the incubator, I guess this is due to low humidity(?). image

If ya'll need answers to anything more about the geckos or habitat, then please let me now, I really want to get this going and be able to produce my own gargoyles.
As a newb on this, I also hope to get some good trips and tricks about anything breeding gargoyle geckos!


Cheers,
Chris image
what are your gargs age/weights? did you give them a cooling period? do they live together? what type of supplements are you using? and when did you try and breed them? giving that its not currently breeding season that may of have something to do with it but could be a number of reasons, is the female a proven breeder of is this her first time?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
what are your gargs age/weights? did you give them a cooling period? do they live together? what type of supplements are you using? and when did you try and breed them? giving that its not currently breeding season that may of have something to do with it but could be a number of reasons, is the female a proven breeder of is this her first time?
The age is a bit over 2 years on the female and a bit under 2 years for the male, or so I'm told..

The female was preg. when I bought her, and yes they live together and I've been told that they have been living together for a long time, she is also supposed to be a breeder as she have had clutches earlier. I have no real evidence of this, though.

I dust the feeders with calcium, other than that, I dont give anything other than CGD every 3 days or so, between the insects. (Locusts and zophobas)

Do you think the eggs were not fertile?
Because when I found them, they were pure white, and had alot of veins in them when I lit them up, but after a while they got worse and worse in the incubator, and today they were mostly just crap. No vains, they had crumbled up and they started to turn dark yellow-ish, so I cut them open to see inside what have happened, and there was some weird yellow/white stuff, it had the consistence of scrambled eggs almost..
 

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The age is a bit over 2 years on the female and a bit under 2 years for the male, or so I'm told..

The female was preg. when I bought her, and yes they live together and I've been told that they have been living together for a long time, she is also supposed to be a breeder as she have had clutches earlier. I have no real evidence of this, though.

I dust the feeders with calcium, other than that, I dont give anything other than CGD every 3 days or so, between the insects. (Locusts and zophobas)

Do you think the eggs were not fertile?
Because when I found them, they were pure white, and had alot of veins in them when I lit them up, but after a while they got worse and worse in the incubator, and today they were mostly just crap. No vains, they had crumbled up and they started to turn dark yellow-ish, so I cut them open to see inside what have happened, and there was some weird yellow/white stuff, it had the consistence of scrambled eggs almost..
ok first things first get the 2 gargs seperated as soon as you can they are really territorial and aggresive breeders and will end up with cuts, scars and very often the tail gets bitten off, they should only be put together when breeding even housing 2 females isnt recomended.

as for the eggs i really am unsure it could be too much/too little humidity, what were you incubating them in? container, temps, substrate the eggs was on etc?.

the feeding sounds ok but i would get yourself a set of scales so that you can weigh them weekly and record any changes in weight etc to have a better idea of health and when ur female will be ready to breed. 40 grams should be the bare minimum but i prefer to weigh a bit more. i would also mix a little bit of nutrabol into the cgd twice a week maybe monday and thursday or something similar as the cgd does contain calcium but not the vitamins and extra's that nutrabol has.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
ok first things first get the 2 gargs seperated as soon as you can they are really territorial and aggresive breeders and will end up with cuts, scars and very often the tail gets bitten off, they should only be put together when breeding even housing 2 females isnt recomended.

as for the eggs i really am unsure it could be too much/too little humidity, what were you incubating them in? container, temps, substrate the eggs was on etc?.

the feeding sounds ok but i would get yourself a set of scales so that you can weigh them weekly and record any changes in weight etc to have a better idea of health and when ur female will be ready to breed. 40 grams should be the bare minimum but i prefer to weigh a bit more. i would also mix a little bit of nutrabol into the cgd twice a week maybe monday and thursday or something similar as the cgd does contain calcium but not the vitamins and extra's that nutrabol has.
All right, I will seperate them first thing tomorrow.
But I only have a 40x40x60 exo terra thats free right now, and then the 60x60x90 terrarium. You dont think the 60x60x90 is going to be ''too big'' for just one of them? Does it matter who gets the bigger cage, depending on the sex of the gecko?
PS: I need to put in that I have never seen any sign of aggression between them, or scars/bitten of tailtips, or anything like that.

I used a styrofoam box with a lid, and holes cut into the side for ventilation.
I filled the box with vermiculite, then I took a sterilite tub with ventiliation holes in it (about the size of a delicup) wich I sprayed with water inside, and then I sat the tub down into the vermiculite in the styrofoam box.
I only sprayed the sterilite tub and the styrofoam box with water once (I recon that was the first mistake) so it was pretty dry when I checked it.

About the temp of the incubation, it was about the same as the reptileroom (about 23-25 celsius).
And in the beginning the humidity in the sterilite tub was around 85%, but when I checked on it today it must've been about 30-40%, so I guess the eggs dried out, but does that explain the white/yellow crumbly stuff inside the eggs?

I will get a scale weight for the geckos as well.
The nutrabol, I'm not sure if I can get my hands on that in my country? (Norway)
I'll ask the petstores around here if they can order it for me, or I was thinking about checking online for it.

WHEN are the breeding season for them?
I cant find it online, and since she was all ready preg. when I got her, I thought the breeding season for them were around these months now.

I'm sorry if my english is bad, but I try my best.
And I'm thankfull for your good answers so far!
Really hoping to get a hang on this. :neutral:
 

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Sounds like an incubation problem but could be wrong, what are you incubating on and temp you were keeping them at. P.S if shes a first time breeder their not always 100% anyways.
 

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All right, I will seperate them first thing tomorrow.
But I only have a 40x40x60 exo terra thats free right now, and then the 60x60x90 terrarium. You dont think the 60x60x90 is going to be ''too big'' for just one of them? Does it matter who gets the bigger cage, depending on the sex of the gecko?
PS: I need to put in that I have never seen any sign of aggression between them, or scars/bitten of tailtips, or anything like that.

I used a styrofoam box with a lid, and holes cut into the side for ventilation.
I filled the box with vermiculite, then I took a sterilite tub with ventiliation holes in it (about the size of a delicup) wich I sprayed with water inside, and then I sat the tub down into the vermiculite in the styrofoam box.
I only sprayed the sterilite tub and the styrofoam box with water once (I recon that was the first mistake) so it was pretty dry when I checked it.

About the temp of the incubation, it was about the same as the reptileroom (about 23-25 celsius).
And in the beginning the humidity in the sterilite tub was around 85%, but when I checked on it today it must've been about 30-40%, so I guess the eggs dried out, but does that explain the white/yellow crumbly stuff inside the eggs?

I will get a scale weight for the geckos as well.
The nutrabol, I'm not sure if I can get my hands on that in my country? (Norway)
I'll ask the petstores around here if they can order it for me, or I was thinking about checking online for it.

WHEN are the breeding season for them?
I cant find it online, and since she was all ready preg. when I got her, I thought the breeding season for them were around these months now.

I'm sorry if my english is bad, but I try my best.
And I'm thankfull for your good answers so far!
Really hoping to get a hang on this. :neutral:
both exo's should be fine as i house mine the the 45 cubed ones and they like to have plenty of hiding spaces so along as there is plenty of branches, bark and hanging plants etc to hide they will be fine. and just because you havnt seen any signs of aggresion doesnt mean one of them couldnt get seriously hurt tonight or any other time so best to keep seperate, and gargoyle breeding season is march to sepember its leo season now lol. im pretty sure you can get nutrabol worldwide, best bet is online if you have not seen in any of your local petshops.

i think you have gone wrong in the incubation, i usually put the eggs in a half filled with perlite plastic tub that has a humidity around 75, and i keep on my cupboard shelf at room temperature. also to be honest the white/yellow crumbling of the egg sounds like the egg wasnt fertile in the first place as this is how my infertile garg and leo eggs have turned out when ive had them. i havnt had any eggs die on me yet but im pretty sure it would sink in and start to smell so them eggs definately sound infertile but for now seperate them and if they are ready give it another go in season :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like an incubation problem but could be wrong, what are you incubating on and temp you were keeping them at. P.S if shes a first time breeder their not always 100% anyways.
I incubated them on Vermiculite, 'cuz that was the only medium I could get my hands on at the time, in my country.
The temp was about the same as the reptileroom is. (23/25+ celsius)

Problem is that I'm not sure if she had clutches before, I have been told so, but I will call the seller tomorrow and check up on it..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
both exo's should be fine as i house mine the the 45 cubed ones and they like to have plenty of hiding spaces so along as there is plenty of branches, bark and hanging plants etc to hide they will be fine. and just because you havnt seen any signs of aggresion doesnt mean one of them couldnt get seriously hurt tonight or any other time so best to keep seperate, and gargoyle breeding season is march to sepember its leo season now lol. im pretty sure you can get nutrabol worldwide, best bet is online if you have not seen in any of your local petshops.

i think you have gone wrong in the incubation, i usually put the eggs in a half filled with perlite plastic tub that has a humidity around 75, and i keep on my cupboard shelf at room temperature. also to be honest the white/yellow crumbling of the egg sounds like the egg wasnt fertile in the first place as this is how my infertile garg and leo eggs have turned out when ive had them. i havnt had any eggs die on me yet but im pretty sure it would sink in and start to smell so them eggs definately sound infertile but for now seperate them and if they are ready give it another go in season :)
All right, I will seperate them tomorrow.
Should I cool them, and in that case WHEN should I start to drop the temperature in the cages?

Yeah, I also guess they were infertile now, after giving it some thought. Well, it makes the ''loss'' a little lighter, lol.
Any tips and tricks on how to introduce them in season?
Anything that might get the going better and so on?
 

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it can be done on vermiculite im just saying how ive been breeding/incubating. ur temps sound about right but really you would need to know from the previous owner how many times they have bred and how many attemps have been succesful etc. just be patient and put plenty of love into them and you will get results when the time comes :2thumb:
 

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If they seem ok as a pair wouldnt bother seperating unless hes bullying her keep mine together year round in the same size viv.
I incubate mine at 26 degrees on vermiculite and get 90% hatch rate.
 

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it can be done on vermiculite im just saying how ive been breeding/incubating. ur temps sound about right but really you would need to know from the previous owner how many times they have bred and how many attemps have been succesful etc. just be patient and put plenty of love into them and you will get results when the time comes :2thumb:

All right, thanks for the help so far.
The only question left from me now, is when should I start cooling them?
If this is something that I need to do.

I'll be sure to check back if I have other questions in the future, and thanks again for the good replies! :notworthy:
 

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All right, I will seperate them tomorrow.
Should I cool them, and in that case WHEN should I start to drop the temperature in the cages?

Yeah, I also guess they were infertile now, after giving it some thought. Well, it makes the ''loss'' a little lighter, lol.
Any tips and tricks on how to introduce them in season?
Anything that might get the going better and so on?
do you use a heat/heat source or anything if not dont do anything just let the temps in your house drop naturally and decrease the amount of food you give them untill it starts coming up to the summer months then gradully feed them more untill they are back to what they normally eat.

as for tips and tricks i dont really have any apart from make sure they have plenty of calcium and they are healthy and a good weight. just so you know they produce less babies than crestys it also takes them longer to lay the eggs.

oh one more thing i noticed you are using some kind of coir substrate? this is preference but i would use paper towels as substrate as it decreases the chance of impaction and also when the female comes to lay she will do it in the moist box of coir instead of just anywere which obviously makes them harder to find
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If they seem ok as a pair wouldnt bother seperating unless hes bullying her keep mine together year round in the same size viv.
I incubate mine at 26 degrees on vermiculite and get 90% hatch rate.

But I figured it might trigger a better breeding response if I keep them seperate, cool them, and then put the male in with the female when the breeding season start? Or am I completely out of range now? :gasp:
 

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If they seem ok as a pair wouldnt bother seperating unless hes bullying her keep mine together year round in the same size viv.
I incubate mine at 26 degrees on vermiculite and get 90% hatch rate.
gargoyles are too agressive to chance this IMO i have seen first hand the damage they do to each other and get nervous just putting them together for breeding nevermind living together
 

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do you use a heat/heat source or anything if not dont do anything just let the temps in your house drop naturally and decrease the amount of food you give them untill it starts coming up to the summer months then gradully feed them more untill they are back to what they normally eat.

as for tips and tricks i dont really have any apart from make sure they have plenty of calcium and they are healthy and a good weight. just so you know they produce less babies than crestys it also takes them longer to lay the eggs.

oh one more thing i noticed you are using some kind of coir substrate? this is preference but i would use paper towels as substrate as it decreases the chance of impaction and also when the female comes to lay she will do it in the moist box of coir instead of just anywere which obviously makes them harder to find
I only use a hallogenlamp on the top of the terrarium, it gives away a couple of degrees more on the side its on, compared to the other side.

I'm using exo-terra's plantation soil as substrate, because I have a few real plants in the terrarium and they thrive in this soil. But the paper towels are a good idea when it comes to spotting the eggs! Should've thought about that, damn.. :blush:

When should I put the male back with the female?
I will seperate them tomorrow, and that might be a good thing to know.

Well, I'll cross my fingers now for a better try when the season comes!
 

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id put them together begining of march thats when mine are pairing up just make sure they are at least 40 grams but itd be better if they are a bit bigger
 

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id put them together begining of march thats when mine are pairing up just make sure they are at least 40 grams but itd be better if they are a bit bigger
well, we're in april now, so should I just let them stay together then or..?
or maybe seperate them and put them back together late april?
 

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well, we're in april now, so should I just let them stay together then or..?
or maybe seperate them and put them back together late april?
i would seperate them for around 3 weeks or so. are they showing breeding behaviour? by this a few cuts may appear from being rough with each other and you should aslo be able to hear then being quite vocal on a night
 
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