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were breeding ours as we speak.
We keep all ours seperate....get a much better breeding response.
they usually get straight to work then.
you need to start cooling...u might find this useful:

In October we lower our temps at night. The hot spot goes down to 82 F and the cool end is 72 F.
We start to adjust our lighting to make shorter days. 14 hours dark - 10 hours of light. We use natural sunlight spectrum bulbs in our room. Although Ball pythons come from Africa and they live on or very close to the equator, where there is no light change (12/12), we still increase the length of darkness during the breeding season. Is there any scientific reasoning behind it? Not's just the way we do it and it works for us. I think more hours in the dark lead to more security. More security...the more comfortable they are and the more they may breed. It also marks a change in seasons.
Starting Nov. 1 we introduce males into the female's containers. We leave them in for 2 days or shorter if we observe copulation.
We try to breed every female at least once every shed cycle. Some do more but this works for us and we don't exhaust our males this way.
We continue to feed during the breeding season, but only small meals and only every 10 - 14 days., depending on where we are in the breeding cycle. More in the beginning...less at the end.
We continue to observe and document all activity ...positive or negative.
Humidity is in the 60 - 65% range in our room all year.
Many breeders start palpating for follicles in January. We do not. I'm not that good at it so I wait until mid February. I've been fooled when I didn't feel any early only to have females go on and ovulate. I also look for other obvious signs that are be covered below.
On Feb.. 14th (Valentine's day - Hey... I'm a hopeless romantic!) I start to raise temps back to normal 24/7. 92 F hot spot - 82 F cool end.
I keep pairing until I see obvious signs or until the end of March.
As a rule...males usually start breeding consistently their 2nd winter at 800 grams or more. Some will breed earlier, but that is the exception to the rule. I have had males breed as early as 4 1/2 months and as light as 394 grams. Again...this is a rare exception. I have heard of instances where males have died from over-breeding. They are not machines! 3 days on...3 days off is the way I do it. If they breed in the first day of their 3 days, they get 3 days off.

Females are usually ready to be bred their 3rd winter and over 1500 grams in weight. Some will go their 2nd winter but they still must be 1500 grams or more. There have been instances where smaller females have produced viable clutches nut it is rare and the clutches are small.

Don't get your snakes too fat! In my experience and through discussions with other, females that are too fat either don't produce or they slug out! Bigger is not always necessarily better! Power feeding is NOT the way to go! A nice consistent growth is much better and healthier. This is NOT a race!
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