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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
heating advice please

A 36" long by 12" wide by 15" high- glass viv,
A 11" by 11" on bottom under glass and 7" 11" side on glass heat mats.
Thinly lined substrate.

The temp is about 80 during and goes to 70 at night.

Is this suitable for a young Red Tailed Columbian Boa of 2ft 8" in lenght.

If not, please advise

thanks all.
 

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For a start make sure that the viv isn't resting directly on the heat mat - you risk the glass cracking if it is. Raise the viv slightly by putting something (thin books?) under each end so that it sits around 5mm above the mats surface.

Not sure those temps will be high enough for a boa - ideally you need something that will heat the air (a heat lamp or a ceramic) in the viv - mats just create warm areas on the floor, they don't actually raise the ambient temp much at all.

Best bet in the long run would be a wooden viv - easier to install decent heating and they hold the heat much better than glass.

Have you got the mats on thermostats? If you haven't then it's essential that you do ASAP - uncontrolled heat mats can and will cause burns, especially through glass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hi Mark67123,
thanks for your help, book suggestion done now.
Can i please have some more help?

Is a - Mircoclimate B2 thermostats pulse 600w - correct equipment (as good as a Habistat thermostat?)
Also what wattage of ceramic bulb is needed?

thanks
 

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I think the microclimates are as good as the habistats, they're certainly good enough. I havent used cernics on glass vivs before but I would think a 3ft will only need a 100w ceramic.
 

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I've got a corn in an identical sized glass tank - they heat up really quick with a light bulb, I have a 40w red bulb in there on a dimmer stat, and it reaches a 30c hot end no probs, with 25c at the other end - perfect (for a corn). The tank is in a warm room though - low 20's all the time, so for colder rooms, you may need a more powerful bulb. Any bulb need a heat guard.

What kind of lid have you got? Mine has a hole for a bulb one end, sliding glass in the middle, and a mesh vent the other end. It takes a bit of fidling to fit a light guard, have a look down this board for a post I put on about the guard I made.

You'll also need to cover 3 sides of the glass tank to help keep the snake secure - you can paint the outside, use cardboard, or buy a desert effect viv background to wrap round.
 

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http://www.reptileforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=16381

I've attached it by leaving extra mesh sticking out at the sides at the top - one side is wedged between the glass and the lid, the other side is folded at slots into the glass runners, beneth the glass. The sides are bend over double, give a tight fit to the lid without being directly attached. It's really hard to explain...
 

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These are specially designed ones for all glass viv lids:

http://www.livefoods.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=590

May not be big enough for a ceramic though. And anyway, Deano's design looks just as good and will do the job equally well at about 10% of the price!
I make all my guards out of the same stuff - dead easy to work with, all you need is a small pair of wire cutters.

As for stats - I use both Microclimate and Habistat pulse stats and they both do the job equally well - I've found Habistats to be a tiny bit more accurate when it comes to keeping the temp steady (only about 1F difference) but you can't fault the Microclimates on price.

This is the cheapest place I know of:
http://www.camzoo.co.uk/pi456430420.htm?categoryId=12
 
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