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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! Anxious new crestie owner here. Picked up a youngster on Saturday (2 days ago), only about 2 and a half months old so pretty tiny.
I'm currently giving it a week to settle in before trying handling and all that. I have a 45x45x60 setup which should last it until adulthood.
I have put food in the last 2 nights once the lights are off. Its the food the breeder had them on - pangea watermelon). I placed it around the enclosure in a couple of different places as I didnt want it to struggle to find the food in such a "big" enclosure. My issue is, I really can't tell if its eaten yet or not so I'm starting to worry. I know it's only small so it'll be pretty hard to see lick marks but I also don't want to leave it too long incase it really isn't eating!
Anyone any tips or reassurance? Should I put it in a smaller box with some food for a couple of hours in the evening to ensure it gets something? Or will that just stress it out even more? Is it normal for them to maybe not eat in a new enclosure? What should I look out for that will tell me it really isnt eating? Weight?

Thank you all in advance! I'm probably just being too cautious but I want to make sure everything is going well!
 

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Offer some small crickets (3rds), easier to find as they will roam around the enclosure and the movement attracts their attention.

All cresties should be fed bugs, even as babies.

I wouldn't remove from enclosure to feed as this is usually too stressful
Best way to check its eating.. is it pooing?
Often they won't eat for first 2 to 7 days after moving.
Keep an eye on its condition, should be able to tell visually if losing weight. Weighing them is an unnecessary stress
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Offer some small crickets (3rds), easier to find as they will roam around the enclosure and the movement attracts their attention.

All cresties should be fed bugs, even as babies.

I wouldn't remove from enclosure to feed as this is usually too stressful
Best way to check its eating.. is it pooing?
Often they won't eat for first 2 to 7 days after moving.
Keep an eye on its condition, should be able to tell visually if losing weight. Weighing them is an unnecessary stress
Thank you for your reply! I'll definitely try the crickets. I haven't seen any poop yet, but havent had a thorough look. The setup has lots of hidey holes and foliage so I'll try to do a better search tonight.
 

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I agree with Tom. Bugs should be fed, rule of thumb - nothing bigger than the gap between the eyes.

It's always a worry when I get a new Crestie because they don't eat straight away. With such a tiny Gecko in such a big enclosure, it may be hard to tell but as long as it's pooping (and looks normal), then I wouldn't worry too much.

If your still having doubts, I'd suggest a smaller enclosure until it gets bigger. But bigger is usually better and as you've placed food in various spots, it should find at least one of them. I usually make my CGD a little thicker for babies as it's so hard to tell sometimes providing it's not too think then I can usually see a lick mark (or foot Mark depending on the Crestie).

Other option is to gently pop don't on the end of its nose so it gets a taste for it (but only if your still unsure).

Good luck, hope your little one eats 🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I agree with Tom. Bugs should be fed, rule of thumb - nothing bigger than the gap between the eyes.

It's always a worry when I get a new Crestie because they don't eat straight away. With such a tiny Gecko in such a big enclosure, it may be hard to tell but as long as it's pooping (and looks normal), then I wouldn't worry too much.

If your still having doubts, I'd suggest a smaller enclosure until it gets bigger. But bigger is usually better and as you've placed food in various spots, it should find at least one of them. I usually make my CGD a little thicker for babies as it's so hard to tell sometimes providing it's not too think then I can usually see a lick mark (or foot Mark depending on the Crestie).

Other option is to gently pop don't on the end of its nose so it gets a taste for it (but only if your still unsure).

Good luck, hope your little one eats 🤞
Thank you for your advice! I'll definitely make the diet up a little thicker, get some crickets and try to be a little more patient. I haven't had a baby reptile in so long, I'm probably just overthinking it!
 

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I always overthink lol

If crickets aren't popular with your Crestie, I also feed my Cresties:

Locusts
Dubia roaches
Wax worms (occasionally)

If your still struggling, maybe you could send a pic of the enclosure, we might be able to give advise on enclosure set up to help make it feel safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I always overthink lol

If crickets aren't popular with your Crestie, I also feed my Cresties:

Locusts
Dubia roaches
Wax worms (occasionally)

If your still struggling, maybe you could send a pic of the enclosure, we might be able to give advise on enclosure set up to help make it feel safe.
I don't mind sending a picture anyway, any advice is always appreciated! There is a smaller piece of cork bark in the back right corner too. (also I have replaced the crappy dial thermometer/hygrometers with digital ones!). The favourite spot to hide at the moment seems to be the upper right corner amongst the leaves. You can just about see him in this picture. When placing the food in, I use the ledge bowl, a spot in the middle of the vine and then a spot up in the top right corner :) Substrate is coconut coir.
352808
 

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I weigh all Cresties when I receive them as I know they can loose some weight when first getting use to an enclosure. I've had a pain of a gecko that's taken a VERY long time to eat properly, luckily she's a grown up.

I can't quite see the Crestie, but if only a few months old, I'd assume it's just a few grams...I won't put Cresties in the big enclosures till at least 10/15g, I know others have, but my reasoning to this is so I can see the Crestie is getting around without risk of injury plus I find it easier to tell they are eating & pooping. I wouldn't worry unless day 5 and I still can't see evidence of eating or pooping.

If concerned, I gently pop a tiny bit on the nose... Which they will lick and hopefully get the taste of it to then look around for more food
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I weigh all Cresties when I receive them as I know they can loose some weight when first getting use to an enclosure. I've had a pain of a gecko that's taken a VERY long time to eat properly, luckily she's a grown up.

I can't quite see the Crestie, but if only a few months old, I'd assume it's just a few grams...I won't put Cresties in the big enclosures till at least 10/15g, I know others have, but my reasoning to this is so I can see the Crestie is getting around without risk of injury plus I find it easier to tell they are eating & pooping. I wouldn't worry unless day 5 and I still can't see evidence of eating or pooping.

If concerned, I gently pop a tiny bit on the nose... Which they will lick and hopefully get the taste of it to then look around for more food
Thanks again for all the advice! I have seen some poop so I'm feeling a bit more relaxed :LOL: When I went to put food in tonight, he was out for a little explore so I got a quick picture!
352821
 

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Heat mats don't warm the air.
They are contact heaters which are fairly useless in most cases. They have their place but not here.
I would personally change to either a ceramic or spot lamp, controlled by a thermostat. These will enable the air to warm and allow the gecko to warm itself.
A few years back I bought a couple of gargoyle geckos, and on the advice from the breeder, kept at room temperature with a UV tube.
Both refused all food, including live, pangea, and other gecko food.
What stood out was that they both spent all the time as close to the uv tube as they could get (they were in separate enclosures with a tube across the tops).
I added a ceramic heater and they both fed within about half an hour of having warmed air.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Heat mats don't warm the air.
They are contact heaters which are fairly useless in most cases. They have their place but not here.
I would personally change to either a ceramic or spot lamp, controlled by a thermostat. These will enable the air to warm and allow the gecko to warm itself.
A few years back I bought a couple of gargoyle geckos, and on the advice from the breeder, kept at room temperature with a UV tube.
Both refused all food, including live, pangea, and other gecko food.
What stood out was that they both spent all the time as close to the uv tube as they could get (they were in separate enclosures with a tube across the tops).
I added a ceramic heater and they both fed within about half an hour of having warmed air.
Ahh, I was wondering about this. I was also told not to bother with heating by the breeder. That didn't quite sit right with me which was why I at least got the heat mat. What temperature do you reccommend for the thermostat? I've seen a few different ranges quoted for them :)
 

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Ahh, I was wondering about this. I was also told not to bother with heating by the breeder. That didn't quite sit right with me which was why I at least got the heat mat. What temperature do you reccommend for the thermostat? I've seen a few different ranges quoted for them :)
They come from a tropical habitat.
My gargs were kept with a basking spot of 30C.
I had mine, once feeding, in the same size viv that yours are.
Honestly, ditch the mat, invest in an over head heater and you will see almost instant changes.
 

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Crested Geckos can die if the heat goes above 30c so beware of that. I find 27 - 21c Is a good temperature range for them. Yes, the warmer they are, the more they tend to eat.

I have used heat mats for my Cresties but the room temperature is set at 21c all year round (& controlled by the Gecko room) although I'm going to try to get a heater specifically for the room (I have several Cresties) to keep the room a little warmer (rather than heating the entire house) as the heat mats just aren't very good.

You have a lovely little high % pinstripe 🥰 glad the little one is pooping as that means it is eating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks again everyone! So an update, I put in a heat emitter. He's become more confident, I now see him exploring when I go up to feed him :D Tried the crickets, not interested in taking them off the tongs. Left some in the viv, found 2 dead but not eaten. But haven't found the others so... hopefully they've been eaten! He has taken the CGD off the end of a paintbrush for me too, hurrah!

My next endeavor is to slowly start handling. I have read different things - handle during the day when they're sleepy. Handle them in the evening when they're more active?
What's everyone's advice? Where do I start? He's super jumpy at the minute and I don't want to stress him out too much. Made an attempt today: I lifted the cork bark he was on top of but he shot off onto the floor of the viv, then jumped at the wall a bunch. He did at one point come up onto my hand and I tried to lift him up onto the branches but he jumped off before I could. He then hid behind the foliage, out of reach so I left it at that.
 

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Personally I don't like handling Cresties during the day as that's their sleep time...I wouldn't want to wake up in the middle of my sleep for some exercise so I don't think it's fair to do that to my Cresties. Although I do handle my Cresties during the day if I'm cleaning their enclosures but those Cresties have settled in and are relatively calm.

I tend to handle my new Cresties either early evening so they are docile still or early morning (I'm an early bird) if they are still awake.

I have found:
the dark the room, the more active the Crestie.

Cresties love to climb and jump so always have something for them to walk or jump too like keep putting one hand in front of the other. I sit on the floor, so they don't have a high fall and I sometimes use plants for the Crestie to jump on to for a bit of extra security (and photo opportunity)
 
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