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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My male Bosc appears to have an issue with his scales. I noticed about a week ago he developed a small pocket of fluid on the back of his neck which presumably drained or leaked and left him with what looks like a little burn mark; although his ceramic is protected by a cage and his UV tube is not hot enough to damage the skin.

It does seem to be causing him a little bit of annoyance but not pain, he's still active and happy to swim and eats absolutely fine. I did begin to notice that some of the odds bits of scale that started to flake off have left what looks like white skin on the underneath, and I can't determine if there is fresh scale underneath this white skin. There is a much larger patch of this white skin around his front leg and the area around his left ear has been white for some time (photo).

I have no idea if the two scale issues are linked but both are an issue which will become an issue if it progresses. Can someone lend me some advice for either or both of these issues? I have some anti-fungal ointment at the ready but am reluctant to use anything unless I know what may have caused this.

Thank you, see photos attached. Can take more if necessary.



 

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Doeslook like a small burn, white under scales that have come off is usually scarring. Get some manuka honey, mix a little with some savlon and it will help it heal.

do you have a row of bulbs to creat basking spot or just a ceramic? Could he have touched the cage around the ceramic, the cages can get hot from ceramic bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do have some termycin ointment left over from when my Boa had a fungal infection, would that help or would it be too harsh? I also have an oil which is made from lavender, tea tree, niouli and sunflower oil as well as other vitamin A and D's, would this also work if I mixed it with some savlon?

As for the scarring I'm unsure how this would be happening in random spots on his body, it's like when the scales are due to shed and naturally drop off they are leaving this white skin underneath. Will this heal itself over time?

I thank you for your advice so far
 

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The white ness will fade overtime, but you will still see it. Not sure about the ointments youve got as never used them myself. Manuka honey has healing agents and antibacterial agents in it, its what alot of rep keepers use.

it could be that he has had a prior infection, therefor causing the odd bits of scarring under his scales.
 

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from the pics, and your description, it sounds like a skin infection, needs to see a vet; because monitor skin is very thick, most ointments will not penetrate deep enough to resolve the issue, if it is a bacterial infection he'll need a course of antibiotics and some F10 ointment

don't put random ointments on without knowing what the problem is, manuka honey is fine, but as I said, monitor skin is thick, if it is an infection that's below the surface, it wont help; definitely don't put anti-fungal ointment on unless the vet confirms it is a fungal infection and prescribes it

if its as a result of a burn, then you need to change your heating setup, if its simply an infection, then there is probably an issue with the overall setup (temps and humidity)
 

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Hi, can you put a few photos up of the whole enclosure and give details of the conditions inside including the temp and humidity ranges and how you measure them, plus more shots of the monitor`s body?
The animal is quite likely to burn from a metal cage just as easily as from the CHE itself if it comes into contact with it.
Edit: If those are burns the whiteness may NOT fade, but so long as the area has healed that is just cosmetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi all, sorry for the very late response but I decided to take him to the vet. Unfortunately I had to wait a week for my local reptile specialist vet to return from holiday but he has currently had 2 antibiotic injections since this Monday.

His condition seemed to have worsened during the week I was waiting with also burn-like scarring appearing on one of his hands which he didn't seem to want to walk on. I can only assume that this happened after he pulled his tubelight down the other week which was followed by his ceramic shorting out and not working for a fair few hours until I can home to the whole situation!

Anyway, he seems to be in the early stages of healing his scarring now, i have been using medicinal grade manuka honey on all of his irritated scales and burn areas. he still eats, sleeps, bathes and digs well. It all just looks so uncomfortable I feel sorry for the guy :(

thank you to everyone for your help and advice, it is much appreciated.
 

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glad to hear he's getting some treatment - think you need to change his setup asap, as you are discovering, monitors cant be trusted to not climb on things they shouldn't lol

you really don't want ceramic heaters in with a monitor, they cannot be protected safely from a monitors inquisitive nature, as they will climb a protective cage and get burnt, aswell as attempting to climb the heater itself, and burning itself while climbing close to the heater (usually on back of head) - ceramics are the cause of many burns on animals like this; not a problem you will have with a rack of suspended halogen floods (hung by wire out of reach, and not firmly screwed in place so that they cant climb them)

additionally you cannot maintain the required humidity level for a bosc with a ceramic heater - also not sure how you are providing a large 130f+ basking area with a ceramic heater?

all you should need for heating is a few halogen flood lamps, in a rack suspended by wire, and an additional UV lamp is recommended - if you have plenty of soil substrate, the enclosure should maintain the required night-time temps when the lamps go off, without the need for additional non-light heating
 

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glad to hear he's getting some treatment - think you need to change his setup asap, as you are discovering, monitors cant be trusted to not climb on things they shouldn't lol

you really don't want ceramic heaters in with a monitor, they cannot be protected safely from a monitors inquisitive nature, as they will climb a protective cage and get burnt, aswell as attempting to climb the heater itself, and burning itself while climbing close to the heater (usually on back of head) - ceramics are the cause of many burns on animals like this; not a problem you will have with a rack of suspended halogen floods (hung by wire out of reach, and not firmly screwed in place so that they cant climb them)

additionally you cannot maintain the required humidity level for a bosc with a ceramic heater - also not sure how you are providing a large 130f+ basking area with a ceramic heater?

all you should need for heating is a few halogen flood lamps, in a rack suspended by wire, and an additional UV lamp is recommended - if you have plenty of soil substrate, the enclosure should maintain the required night-time temps when the lamps go off, without the need for additional non-light heating
Hi, ceramic heaters have nothing to do with the humidity range in themselves, for example a row of 3 x 50w halogens will heat the air to much the same degree as 1 x 150w CHE.
CHE`s are perfectly acceptable for raising the ambient temps if necessary, always providing the animal cannot come into contact, of course.
I definitely agree that ceramic heaters are not suitable for creating basking spots, halogen (floods) are far more efficient.
 

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Hi, ceramic heaters have nothing to do with the humidity range in themselves, for example a row of 3 x 50w halogens will heat the air to much the same degree as 1 x 150w CHE.
CHE`s are perfectly acceptable for raising the ambient temps if necessary, always providing the animal cannot come into contact, of course.
I definitely agree that ceramic heaters are not suitable for creating basking spots, halogen (floods) are far more efficient.
...i do agree that it depends how you use them, maintaining a few degrees ambient temp isn't the same as running it full whack to heat a basking area...

but ceramics get far hotter than halogen lamps of the same power (for eg 100w ceramic surface temp @ 550f, compared to 100w halogen glass temp @ 400f)

perhaps modern ceramics are a little more efficient, that 550f measurement is one I took some years ago...but i stopped using them after my last beardie died, I have always found them to be a problem with species that needed humidity, but halogens do the job beautifully.
 
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