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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just doing a clean out of the viv and found under his substrate a half digested pinkie,

this is now the 3rd time this has happened (but not in sucsessive feeds) I'm now really worried.

His temp are ok the graident is ok, he by my untrained eyes seems ok i.e. active, happy to be handled, not grumpy or agressive, and drinking fine

The last feed pics (posted as dinner time in the snake pics section) shows him eating the last feed with no problem even had a poo since feeding.

So I am really at a loss here :-(

I've updated my msn properly on my profile so if anyone want to contact through that feel free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I leave him alone a day or 2 before and 2 days after
 

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I know you say your temps are correct BUT are you just using a heat matt to get the floor temps?

Could be that the overall ambient temps are a bit low?
 

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looking at the feeding pcs you look to be doing everything right in that respect, are you absolutly possitive that the warm end is warm enough ? what are you taking the readings with and where are you taking them from ? do you have a maximum/minimum thermometer ? (perhaps there is too much of an overnight drop)
If your temps are stable and at optimum levels, then there is obviously another reason for the regurges.
perhaps your supply of pinks or the way they have been stored is not quite right, some smaller pet shops end up keeping frozen pinks far to long (I would not use a pink that had been frozen more than a month, but thats just me)
I recommend leaving the snake totally alone for 14 days, just change the water. buy some avipro to add to the water to help boost the gut flora, and then try again. If this persists though a visit to the vet will really be the only option as the problem may be parasitic or genetic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I also have a bulb in there, the heatmat has the mat stat probe on the mat and I have the thermometers at 2-3 inches off the floor at either end and that how I check the ambients
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
looking at the feeding pcs you look to be doing everything right in that respect, are you absolutly possitive that the warm end is warm enough ? what are you taking the readings with and where are you taking them from ? do you have a maximum/minimum thermometer ? (perhaps there is too much of an overnight drop)
If your temps are stable and at optimum levels, then there is obviously another reason for the regurges.
perhaps your supply of pinks or the way they have been stored is not quite right, some smaller pet shops end up keeping frozen pinks far to long (I would not use a pink that had been frozen more than a month, but thats just me)
I recommend leaving the snake totally alone for 14 days, just change the water. buy some avipro to add to the water to help boost the gut flora, and then try again. If this persists though a visit to the vet will really be the only option as the problem may be parasitic or genetic.
ahh right I'll get some of that.

the pinkies are bought from a rep store so I would have assumed they'd keep them right and also they have plenty to feed there so the stock turnaround should be high
 

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Could be 'just one of those things tbh'.... Your snake might have eaten and stayed in the cool end, some are stupid enough lol! Then it could have crapped it out slightly whole....

I wouldn't worry to much unless it happens time and time again!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Could be 'just one of those things tbh'.... Your snake might have eaten and stayed in the cool end, some are stupid enough lol! Then it could have crapped it out slightly whole....

I wouldn't worry to much unless it happens time and time again!
I find it odd as it's half digested ? but I will have to invest in a min max therometer soon.

Tried to get some avipro in our local petshops but they looked confused when I asked so my missus is having a scout at the petshop near where she works today
 

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I don't know if you drop the temperture during the nights. If you do though leave the heat on during the night you have fed your snake. I tend to do that with my little snakes jsut to help. Never bothered with my larger ones though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah I have the light off at night and the heat mat on the stat the graident drops about 4degrees (ish) I'll do that next feed (13 days and counting...

btw our house doesn't drop below 20degrees (way over insulated) I styaed up a few time all night just to measure that lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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If you are positive that the temp gradient is OK, try putting some probiotic or similar in his water, it will re-line his stomach from the previous regurges. It could be that he cannot digest because of this so it sits there for a few days and gives up ?

Also, try leaving the heat up overnight until he has digested a full meal. The room temperatures may be OK but have you checked for draughts etc ? may be wise to check the humidity in there too ?

Possibly of no help at all, but hopefully you can find what is wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Shame on you for being so thrifty when its your little fluffys health on the line!
Tutt tutt tutt :naughty:

Here you go mr thrift: eBay.co.uk: Digital Hygrometer Thermometer Humidity w/ Alarm CHEAP (item 190079351076 end time 10-Feb-07 18:33:48 GMT)

Hows that for you? :)
I checked temps in the viv for about a month before I bought fluffy with light only, mat only and all combos in between.

I know for a fact the the drop is within the (quoted on a number of care sheets and the kathy love bible) acceptable range.

If it is the case he needs a longer time with the light on whilst digesting I will try that, Mrs-Tick is securing some Avipro as we speak so that will help his stressed stomach, I'm leaving him alone now for 2 weeks except for water changing.

And when the end of the month comes it's b'day time for me so I will get a min/max one (with probe) from maplin for a tenner.

Sorry if this comes across as a bit mardy but theres being thrifty and then there's being tight.

I care for every animal I have ever owned, we currently have fluffy and ceefer, ceefer is our 3 year old cat who has FIV (found out he had it from birth) we have to give him steroids once a week and had a checkup last week and the vets was surprised that he's doing so well.

And the same goes for fluffy, the one reason I am not rushing off to a rep vets is that he's at least digesting some of it and passing it so he is getting some nutrition and also as we do not drive I'd rather not have to take him on public trasnport and stress him out.

He's still active and drinking a plenty, he was mooching about the viv from about 1pm to about 10pm (maybe longer but we went to bed) this is why the regurge are so odd with all the other parameters he's "normal"

*edit* forgot to add he's never been caught in his water bowl so that points to a comfortable level of hydration but again I will get a min/max with a hygrometer, before anyone says so :p
 

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@ the tick

I have sent you an email, may be this could be interesting for you.. Hope you have received it. Unfortunately I can not post the content in the board, when you read it you may understand why. Sorry for sounding so mysterious..

All the best for your corn - I have two as well (one "snow" and one "normal" - La Liese and Freddy)

I would not add anything to the drinking water, except recommended by a qualified vet. When you give them too much supplements, it may me more harmful than helpful.

Take care!
 

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Is the probe on the mat? if it is move it so that it rests on top of the substrate above the heat mat.

If the probe is on the mat the temp at mat level will be correct but when it has a layer of substrate on top of it too the temp could be 2-3 degrees off
 

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Is the probe on the mat? if it is move it so that it rests on top of the substrate above the heat mat.

If the probe is on the mat the temp at mat level will be correct but when it has a layer of substrate on top of it too the temp could be 2-3 degrees off


:lol2::lol2::lol2: you spud! look at the date its from 07 :lol2::lol2::lol2:
 
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