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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Ball Python, King, has weird white lines on both of his eyes. I’m not super worried about it, but I just want to know what it is. I’m very sure it’s not stuck shed because his eyes are gray during shed of course. I think he might have scratched his eyes on something, but I’m not sure. Here is a picture:
Eye Reptile Jaw Scaled reptile Lizard
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My Ball Python, King, has weird white lines on both of his eyes. I’m not super worried about it, but I just want to know what it is. I’m very sure it’s not stuck shed because his eyes are gray during shed of course. I think he might have scratched his eyes on something, but I’m not sure. Here is a picture: View attachment 356166
He is also not eating but I’m very sure that’s because he’s on brumation. My room is usually pretty cold at night and his lamp turns on at 8:00AM. When I pick him up early in the morning, he feels pretty cold. And I know it’s because I have one-paned windows.
 

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Oh for crying out loud.
Royals do not brumate.
You need to be providing heat day and night.
This is probably why he's not feeding.
To get any meaningful advice, please detail exactly how he is housed, what heating you use, how that is controlled and measured and what temperatures he has.
 

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Can you provide more information on his set up please?
One concern jumps straight out and that's the lack of heat at night. Royal Pythons need heat 24/7. During the day I use a uva/uvb bulb and a ceramic heater on a thermostat. At night, it's just the ceramic heater on.
Without the correct set up and heat, the snake just cannot function properly and digestion will be poor.
 

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He is also not eating but I’m very sure that’s because he’s on brumation. My room is usually pretty cold at night and his lamp turns on at 8:00AM. When I pick him up early in the morning, he feels pretty cold. And I know it’s because I have one-paned windows.
You would think that with Royals being probably the most commonly kept snake, and thus with stacks of books and on-line care sheets available, people would find it impossible to get their husbandry so so wrong. We even have sticky posts in this snake section yet people are still using the wrong type of heating, and treating a tropical species as if they originate from a temperate part of the world !!

Have a read of this and this - Your snake need access to 30c - 33c air temperature at the warm side 24/7. The majority of royals typically have very good appetites this time of year, building up reserves for the breeding season that typically starts in the next few months. As Ian has stated, these snakes do not burmate.. you are effectively killing your snake by not providing the correct environment. It's too cold so its stopped eating. It needs the warmth to ensure digestion, which with the heat being turned off over night, when the snake typically hunts it can't do that.

I've provided you with one source of information on proper care for Royal Pythons... there are plenty of others, which all say the same... You should have done your research prior to getting the snake, but we are where we are.

With regards to the white part of the eye that's normal. Occasionally it's more noticeable after a shed, but nothing to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You would think that with Royals being probably the most commonly kept snake, and thus with stacks of books and on-line care sheets available, people would find it impossible to get their husbandry so so wrong. We even have sticky posts in this snake section yet people are still using the wrong type of heating, and treating a tropical species as if they originate from a temperate part of the world !!

Have a read of this and this - Your snake need access to 30c - 33c air temperature at the warm side 24/7. The majority of royals typically have very good appetites this time of year, building up reserves for the breeding season that typically starts in the next few months. As Ian has stated, these snakes do not burmate.. you are effectively killing your snake by not providing the correct environment. It's too cold so its stopped eating. It needs the warmth to ensure digestion, which with the heat being turned off over night, when the snake typically hunts it can't do that.

I've provided you with one source of information on proper care for Royal Pythons... there are plenty of others, which all say the same... You should have done your research prior to getting the snake, but we are where we are.

With regards to the white part of the eye that's normal. Occasionally it's more noticeable after a shed, but nothing to worry about.
He’s a VERY good eater in the summer. He ate every time right away. The eye was the only thing I was worried about. He is very healthy and active. He’s actually a pretty good weight too. I have done all of my research and provide a humidity box for him when he’s in shed. He has perfect sheds. Should I have his lamp on longer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
He’s a VERY good eater in the summer. He ate every time right away. The eye was the only thing I was worried about. He is very healthy and active. He’s actually a pretty good weight too. I have done all of my research and provide a humidity box for him when he’s in shed. He has perfect sheds. Should I have his lamp on longer?
I do have a heat mat for him… should I keep his light but add his heat mat? If I add the heat mat, I would keep it on constantly, correct?
 

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He’s a VERY good eater in the summer. He ate every time right away. The eye was the only thing I was worried about. He is very healthy and active. He’s actually a pretty good weight too. I have done all of my research and provide a humidity box for him when he’s in shed. He has perfect sheds. Should I have his lamp on longer?
I dont think you have!!
Because I have never read, anywhere, that royal pythons BRUMATE!!
How exactly are you keeping him? What temperatures are you providing and how are you measuring and controlling them?
Heat mats do not warm the air and should not be used for heavy bodied snakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Oh for crying out loud.
Royals do not brumate.
You need to be providing heat day and night.
This is probably why he's not feeding.
To get any meaningful advice, please detail exactly how he is housed, what heating you use, how that is controlled and measured and what temperatures he has.
I have read that Ball Pythons do not brumate but I have heard of breeders putting their Ball Pythons through a brumation stage to stimulate better breeding. So I thought that maybe it was just the cold temperatures and it was normal for some Ball Pythons. I did not find any other information on that. I house him in a 20g wide front opening terrarium because he is not full grown yet; he’s only 5 months old. I use Aspen Snake Bedding for his substrate. I use Aspen to kind of mimic his habitat in the wild, dry desert and humid termite mound(his humidity box when he needs it). I am planning on providing him two caves but he has a pretty big plant he could hide under in the cool end, and a cave in the warm end. His temperatures stay around 95 degrees in the warm end, and 80 degrees in the cool end. I do believe the humidity levels go up a bit because of the good-sized water dish in the cool end. He roams around every night and does great with handling. I have a heat mat for him I just need to get the thermostat so I can provide him constant heat. His enclosure looks like this:
World Rectangle Organism Natural landscape Terrestrial plant
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I dont think you have!!
Because I have never read, anywhere, that royal pythons BRUMATE!!
How exactly are you keeping him? What temperatures are you providing and how are you measuring and controlling them?
Heat mats do not warm the air and should not be used for heavy bodied snakes.
I house him in a 20g wide front opening terrarium with Aspen Snake Bedding. I provide a humidity box when needed. He’s never had stuck shed. I use the Reptispot basking lamp with a timer. It turns on at 8:00AM and turns off at 10:00PM. I use a thermometer on the wall of his terrarium (although I do know it can fall off and he could get stuck to it. I have tried to take it off but it leaves some of the sticky residue) and I use a temp gun. His warm end temperatures are 95 degrees and his cool end temperatures are 80 degrees.
 

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I suspect they issue is lack of heat at night. What thermostat are you using for the heat lamp?
Also, without a thermometer you have no way of knowing what the temperature really is.
You need to use a digital thermometer.
 

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You need to research again.
Breeders condition adults, that is NOT brumation. The two are very, very different.
Royals do not come from dry desert. Where on earth did you get that idea from?? They are from West Africa, which is a warm, humid fairly tropical part of Africa. Nor do they live in termite mounds, that is old and very outdated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I suspect they issue is lack of heat at night. What thermostat are you using for the heat lamp?
Also, without a thermometer you have no way of knowing what the temperature really is.
You need to use a digital thermometer.
I have a temp gun too
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You need to research again.
Breeders condition adults, that is NOT brumation. The two are very, very different.
Royals do not come from dry desert. Where on earth did you get that idea from?? They are from West Africa, which is a warm, humid fairly tropical part of Africa. Nor do they live in termite mounds, that is old and very outdated.
What type of heat should I use then?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
You need to research again.
Breeders condition adults, that is NOT brumation. The two are very, very different.
Royals do not come from dry desert. Where on earth did you get that idea from?? They are from West Africa, which is a warm, humid fairly tropical part of Africa. Nor do they live in termite mounds, that is old and very outdated.
Should I change my setup completely?
 

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As already suggested I would use a ceramic heater controlled by a pulse thermostat. This can then be left on day and night.
As you say it gets cold at night, it might be worth putting polystyrene sheets on the sides to aid heat retention.
Aspen is fine as a substrate, but you could also consider bark chip.
Have a read through General care and husbandry for Royal Pythons
 

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As already suggested I would use a ceramic heater controlled by a pulse thermostat. This can then be left on day and night.
As said above this is how I keep my royals. Keep him warm 24/7 and appetite should improve.
 

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He’s a VERY good eater in the summer. He ate every time right away. The eye was the only thing I was worried about. He is very healthy and active. He’s actually a pretty good weight too. I have done all of my research and provide a humidity box for him when he’s in shed. He has perfect sheds. Should I have his lamp on longer?
You either didn't research enough or read the wrong care sheets....

I do have a heat mat for him… should I keep his light but add his heat mat? If I add the heat mat, I would keep it on constantly, correct?
I provided links to the heating methods and care sheet - clearly you couldn't be bothered to read them otherwise you wouldn't be asking theses questions

What type of heat should I use then?
Again, its covered in the links I provided, which again Ian linked to for the second time (how many more times do we need to direct you ??)

Should I change my setup completely?
YES !!!!!!!!!!

I'm not going to repeat what I've written before... links to the information you need have been provided.

With regards to breeding, the drop of a degree or two for a few hours is what's known as conditioning, but is not IMO needed. But breeders do not turn off the heat all together !!
 

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I dont think you have!!
Because I have never read, anywhere, that royal pythons BRUMATE!!
How exactly are you keeping him? What temperatures are you providing and how are you measuring and controlling them?
Heat mats do not warm the air and should not be used for heavy bodied snakes.
Is that you , Malc ?

:)


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