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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone

Just wondering if anyone can help me

I’ve been downstairs since 6am and duffle my herp nursery ll has started bleeping and the temperature won’t go any higher the 5 degrees

I’ve opene the top panel and cleaner the little electric bored up but still just beeps and won’t go above 5 degrees

Any suggestions before i just chuck it out as it’s bloodier Annoying


https://youtu.be/aeRNhosOBX8


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Quick google and it seem these things fail fairly regularly...

Looks like its a trip to the tip and time to make or buy a new incubator
 

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Mine packed up too. When it worked it was great. Mine lasted about 5 years I think. The electrics packed up on it, beeping erratically and temperature all over the place.
They dont last for ever.
 

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I would have thought that these would be easy enough to modify to use a normal pulse stat and remove the internal electrics, presuming the thing retains heat OK, which as I'n used his for 5 years would suggest they otherwise perform OK.
 

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I would have thought that these would be easy enough to modify to use a normal pulse stat and remove the internal electrics, presuming the thing retains heat OK, which as I'n used his for 5 years would suggest they otherwise perform OK.
I'm sure, if you know what you are doing with it.
 

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I'm sure, if you know what you are doing with it.
What form of heater do they use? - can't be any harder than cutting the two wires from the element / mat, extending them and fitting a 13amp plug on the end to connect to a dimmer thermostat. I'm sure most people are capable of wiring a plug, or joining two wires together :whistling2:
 

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I got one the same in the garage. had the same recurring fault with these when I had a shop and used to sell them, when the fan is on all the time and preventing heat rising to the required temperature. . I suspect it is the thermistor. Unfortunately never found anywhere you could get spare or anybody to repair them.
 

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I got one the same in the garage. had the same recurring fault with these when I had a shop and used to sell them, when the fan is on all the time and preventing heat rising to the required temperature. . I suspect it is the thermistor. Unfortunately never found anywhere you could get spare or anybody to repair them.
The problem is that if they use a thermistor, which given how cheap they are is probably the case, if its gone open circuit then you can't measure its resistance to get some idea of a replacement.

If these incubators otherwise work well, then it could easily be modified using a normal pulse proportional stat. You wouldn't have the fancy display, but by adding a cheap module from e-bay you could display the temperature and humidity.
 

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OMG... relying on a Peltier Module to heat or chill... no wonder why they fail so often !
 

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And for the English speakers on here, that is????????
Basically in simple terms you have a sandwich of two conductors with some electrical compound between which forms a "junction" (like a jam sandwich for want of a better visualisation). The application of current across the junction via the conductors results in the Peltier effect where one plate cools and the other warms ( so in our jam sandwich one slice of bread is cold, the other hot). The temperature difference between the two sides can be hundreds of degrees, with frosted plate on one side and the other able to boil water. Naturally with such a high temperature differential it's hard on the junction material, which often fails (especially in the cheaper units from China). They are normally used for chilling applications rather than heating, and are not very efficient (a reptile heat mat is more efficient).

As mentioned, I would suggest the OP just uses a pulse stat and a couple of heat mats inside the incubator rather than fitting a new Peliter unit, but it's simple enough job to swap one out if he can get to the faulty unit
 

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Just wanted to add my experience here:

Always liked the looks of the exo terra versions of these. Bought one second hand. Plugged it in and set it. Display showed high 30°c's, internal temperature felt very cold and measured below 5°c.

Found that video about replacing the peltier module. Bought one and replaced it. It started behaving OK at first, the display temperature was about 10°c above the actual temperature inside, but we're all used to ignoring what's written on the thermostat dial and watching digital thermometer reading instead.

Then it went mental again a few days later.

I've unplugged it and am currently debating what to do with it. I could put a tiny heat mat in the bottom wired to a mini mat stat, but I liked the little fan inside for mixing air temperatures 😕
 

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I've unplugged it and am currently debating what to do with it. I could put a tiny heat mat in the bottom wired to a mini mat stat, but I liked the little fan inside for mixing air temperatures 😕
It's simple enough to modify one of those to use a more standard form of heater and a traditional thermostat. The fan could still be used as it's probably a PC fan run from 12v (hence the switch mode PSU seen in the video).
 

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It's simple enough to modify one of those to use a more standard form of heater and a traditional thermostat. The fan could still be used as it's probably a PC fan run from 12v (hence the switch mode PSU seen in the video).
Trouble is, it's even easier to get a free poly box, cheap/free cake cooling rack, heat mat and stat... then you have a fully working incubator with drastically more room for eggs.

These little black incubators are tiny. Their saving grace should be making incubation easier with the viewing window and internal light, but if they don't even do the bare minimum temperature control... they're borderline useless.

A countertop glass door huskey fridge is better for converting into an incubator.

It's just a shame and I'm disappointed 😂
 

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I thought I'd add my 2 cents here : victory:
I have worked with peltiers for years and they have their advantages and failings.

I used to cool the CPU on my PC using higher wattage pelitiers, often temps were well below zero centigrade.
I have had several small fridges and coolers all powered by peliters. I have an 18 bottle wine cooler with two temperature zones that I currently store white worm in! The control for the temperature in that wine cooler is crap. So I replace it with a more reliable inkbird thermostat.

The problem when peltiers don't maintain correct temp is due to the system that controls them, not the peltiers themselves.
As long as you don't overheat a peltier it can run for years.
The problem is that most control systems turn the fan off, on the hot side of the peltier, as soon as the power to the peltier goes off. Problem here is the pelitier continues to produce heat for several seconds after the power is turned off. this often results in the peltier burning out due to this excess heat not being removed. If the fans continue to run after the power to the peltier goes off then this does not happen.In my case I sometimes wire the fans on the hot side of the peltier to run continuously whether the peltier is running or not. That way the hot side does not overheat and burn out the peltier. and the peltier life is extended.
Having said all this, If a peltier fails and needs replacement most people would be better off with a heat mat or heat cable and a good dimmer or pulse thermostat.
If a heat mat or cable is more reliable you might ask why the manufactures put peltiers in their fridges and incubators. It simply comes down to cost. A peltier and cheap controller will be under £3 while the heat mat / cable and dimmer controller would likely add at least £20 to the cost, making them too expensive in a competitive market.
 

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If a heat mat or cable is more reliable you might ask why the manufactures put peltiers in their fridges and incubators. It simply comes down to cost. A peltier and cheap controller will be under £3 while the heat mat / cable and dimmer controller would likely add at least £20 to the cost, making them too expensive in a competitive market.
But you wouldn't think that given the price these incubators retail at.

A couple of years back I picked up a Reptibator incubator, which is basically a polly box, heating element and a pulse stat. These retail for £150 ! Granted it did a great job of incubating a clutch of royal python eggs, but seriously, £150 for a polly box and a pulse stat.

And the incubator discussed in this thread.. average retail price is £140... for a fancy plastic box, a cheap heat exchanger and controller....

Now if the two products were combined, with a well insulated case, a pulse stat and a traditional heating element for the same amount I'm sure it would be possible and lucky reptile incubator would still be profitable, just not as much profit !

I have no idea on the production volume, but I'm sure if a pulse stat was needed they wouldn't' be costing the same as a habistat etc. An arduino nano, or even a $2 ESP86xx wifi module can run code an switch a $1 SSR to make it a pulse proportional stat, so the electronics are as cheap as chips :) One of these could easily be made and retail for under £100 and there would still be a hefty profit in it for them
 
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