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You certainly put a good amount of work in this, I hope it will be very useful to new keepers.

I do have some comments:

Why a stat is needed underneath the basking spot. If a basking spot gets to warm the animal can simply move away. It's the cold side that shouldn't become too hot, that's what an stat is for. It doesn't matter much if the basking spot will become hotter than 45 degrees so long as the animal can seek shelter from the heat on the cool side.

The wild diet of adult bearded dragons contain about four times the amount of animal matter then the chart would suggest (according to: https://www.researchgate.net/public...lian_Central_Bearded_Dragons_Pogona_vitticeps). The researchers found that 61% of the weight of their stomach contents was made up from animal matter. So it would seem to suggest that bearded dragons (at least seasonally) eat animal matter on much higher basis.
 

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Some really useful info there :D

I am getting a bearded dragon from a friend and was going to get a 3ft long home for him but i shall get a bigger one now, thank you also for the tips on what uv to get, the local pet store only has exoterra but i shall look online and get arcadia after you have said they last much longer.

Thank you as well for the list of food! My friend said i can just use rocket and squash, its good to know some other easy ones i can find and how good it is to feed them a variety.

Hopefully will give Rex a really good start!
 

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I have one question, i live uup in Scotland and it gets very cold at night, do i need to maintain those temperatures at night as well?

If so, what is the best way to do it?
 

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I have one question, i live uup in Scotland and it gets very cold at night, do i need to maintain those temperatures at night as well?

If so, what is the best way to do it?
Hi, even though I often see nighttime temps of 15c being advised, I personally would not go below approx. 19c, there is absolutely no reason to let the ambient temps fall that low (15c) unless the animal is brumating. Just because it can get quite cold during the night at times in the wild, the retreats they use would usually have a somewhat higher temp than the "outside" air...
 

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I have one question, i live up in Scotland and it gets very cold at night, do i need to maintain those temperatures at night as well?

If so, what is the best way to do it?
To add to the above,

In my view the best way to provide this is a Habistat Reptile Radiator, controlled by a Pulse Proportional Thermostat, this will allow you to efficiently provide the comfortable and stable ambient temperatures the Dragon will prefer during the even the coldest nights.
 

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You certainly put a good amount of work in this, I hope it will be very useful to new keepers.

I do have some comments:

Why a stat is needed underneath the basking spot. If a basking spot gets to warm the animal can simply move away. It's the cold side that shouldn't become too hot, that's what an stat is for. It doesn't matter much if the basking spot will become hotter than 45 degrees so long as the animal can seek shelter from the heat on the cool side.

The wild diet of adult bearded dragons contain about four times the amount of animal matter then the chart would suggest (according to: https://www.researchgate.net/public...lian_Central_Bearded_Dragons_Pogona_vitticeps). The researchers found that 61% of the weight of their stomach contents was made up from animal matter. So it would seem to suggest that bearded dragons (at least seasonally) eat animal matter on much higher basis.
I think this needs to be discussed more, it feels like over time the ration of animal matter to vegetable matter has continuously decreased in captive diets without it being questioned too much. Like yourself the only wild studies i found suggest otherwise.

I wonder if the true answer is a higher percentage of animal protein but with less frequent feeding?

Has anyone ever found a reliable guide to ground, rather than air temperatures across their range?
 

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Hi
Please can you help with the set up of my viv, I can't seem to get the temps just right.
I have set the habistat dimming thermostat to 36.5 and the probe is on the back wall at a similar height to the basking spot. Immediately below the basking spot the temp varies from 40 - 42, however the temps in the cool end are 27.7. Am i right in saying the cool end isnt cool enough?
In addition to this the power meter on the stat is ranging from 48 -58% which according to the instructions means the heater is too big?
Sorry should have said, it's a 4ft x 2ft heigh viv.

What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
 

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Hi
I am literally just setting up - we don't have our beardie yet just want to get his home absolutely right!
We have no substrate or water currently in. We have stone as the basking spot and we're intending on moving the rest of the deco around once we have temps right.
Here's a pic....please be gentle!!
 

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i have just been using the probes with that you can see in the pictures and placing one of them on the surface of the stone to check the basking temp.

We previously had the thermostat probe at the cool end and the thermometer and the hot end and the temps were ok...but i've since read that the thermostat needs to monitor the heat lamp. is this right?
 

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i have just been using the probes with that you can see in the pictures and placing one of them on the surface of the stone to check the basking temp.

We previously had the thermostat probe at the cool end and the thermometer and the hot end and the temps were ok...but i've since read that the thermostat needs to monitor the heat lamp. is this right?
Hi, to make things easier for you, you basically need to know just two temps during the daytime; the lowest ambient (air) @ between approx. 21 to 24c, then the SURFACE temp of the basking object @ between approx. 38 to 45c (the lower figure will be around the outside of the area, the higher more directly below the heat bulb/s).
Nighttime ambient temps should not fall below approx. 19c unless the dragon is brumating.
The humidity needs to range between approx. 30 to 50% or so (contrary to popular opinion) in some parts of their wild range the humidity can get over 60% at times, many people don`t take into account that the humidity in the refuges they choose will normally be higher (even in very arid locales).
The temp/humidity probe needs to be nearer to ground level where the animal will spend most of it`s time.
Here`s a link to a Temp-gun which you need to accurately measure the basking surface (the probe will not be as accurate)...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191386183976?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
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