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RETICULATED PYTHON

Scientific name, PYTHON RETICULATUS
AKA, the RETIC

Difficulty level
Advanced


Natural Habitat,
Indonesia, Philippines and Southeast Asia

Size
Hatchlings are usually between 16 and 24 inch’s from the egg, Females range on average from 17 feet plus, males tend to be smaller from 12 feet plus, retic’s are slender snakes but can get good body weight and bulk out at normal around the 14ft in length.
Records for this Giant are 33 and a half feet and 320 pounds this snake was wild court and believed to be a Sulawesi or a Makasar Retic. In my opinion the Sulawesi Retic is the same as a Makasar Retic as Sulawesi is a part of the Makasar Island.


Visual Characteristics
These snakes have the ability to grow huge so I would suggest trying to get one of these snakes as young as possible and start working with it as soon as possible! These snakes can grow from 16 inch’s to 24ft plus very quickly. Reticulated pythons are somewhat slender for their length & develop a very muscular girth that tends to stay round, instead of flattening out as in other large constrictors. These giant pythons are extremely variable, with net-like or rope-like patterning on a silver or tan-silver background. The dorsal pattern is typically the base color of the snake and bordered in black and yellow, orange or brown. The lateral blotches are light in color. The entire body radiates an iridescent sheen.
Characteristics
These snakes have a bad undeserved reputation undeserved due to when people first started keeping these snakes all where wild caught (WC), now put yourself in the snakes scales your out one day in the wild jungle searching around for some food and the next thing you know your in a bag and then put in a cage face it your going to be scared and attack the first thing you see that moves! Captive bread (CB) Retics are often friendly and feed more readily and grow into fantastic pets that are more alert than many other boids. If raised properly in captivity and handled they can be excellent animals. They are very aware and intelligent snakes that often interact with you not as a pet but more as an equal, and please remember this as there sheer size deserves your up most respect. Purchase captive born hatchling whenever possible, they are surprisingly tame but becoming less rare due to people breeding them. Ensure any animal that you buy has good vibrant colours and not dehydrated have good body weight and of course is feeding.

Lifespan
Retic’s have been known to live for over 30 years in captivity
Husbandry
Tropical temperatures of around (DO NOT GUESS) 85 - 90F, with a basking spot of around 92-95F. And a humidity level of around 50% to 70% (ONCE AGAIN DO NOT GUESS) lightly misting the inside of the cage twice daily may also help raise and maintain a more comfortable humidity level for your retic. If the humidity is still too low check the size of your vents. If they are too large try covering them slightly and gradually until proper humidity levels are achieved. DO NOT cover the vents all the way or to a point where the snake is deprived of fresh air.With hatchling to some adult retics some times a hide box is needed, also keep fresh water ( DEHYDRATION WILL KILL YOUR SNAKE ) in a bowl for drinking and large enough for the retic to bathe in, of course with a full grown retic this wont be possible, with Enclosure size’s you can go one of two ways you can give a full grown snake a complete room or what I have chosen to go for is a wooden built vivarium measuring six foot long three foot deep and two or three foot high. There are many suitable substrates (cage floor covering) in the market today. Any that are highly absorbent and somewhat sterile are acceptable. Many herpers use newspaper. Others use different types of bark or mulch available at most garden supply stores. Cleaning should always be performed the moment a mess is detected. This will help to ensure that your retic remains healthy and clean.
With hatchling I like to keep them on kitchen tissue paper, first of all hatchlings tend to have delicate scales and the tissue paper is soft so it shouldn’t cause any problem there, secondly it absorbs spilt water urine and fasces, thirdly it’s easy to clean up! Last of all if you decide to feed your hatchling retic in his/her enclosure the last thing you want is for your pride and joy to be eating its dinner and to swallow wood chip it wont necessarily damage your snake going down but what go’s in must come out!

Health problems
These snakes suffer from problems such as Respiratory problems, scale rot, mouth rot, bad sheds, now these are just a few of the problems you could encounter, most of the problems are due to bad husbandry or stress, you are more likely to have less heath problems with CB (Captive Breed) than with WC (Wild Caught) CF (Captive Farmed) LTC (Long Term Captive) if you can always try to go for a CB retic’s, the reasons for this are as follows:
1, They will hopefully have less health problem.
2, They will tend to settle in better and be more ready to feed.
3, They will 9/10 tamer, little or large retic bite’s hurt.
4, My favorite is that CB don’t tend to musk on you.
Shedding
When your retic is coming up for shed its skin shall go dull then turn a milky colour then its eyes should milk over, a Retic skin is a lot thinner than most other snakes which can cause problems like what I mentioned before like scale rot! IE if you leave the shed skin on the chances are your retic might not be able to get this off and it could cause scale rot. Scale rot can be caused with skin that hasn’t been shed off do to a bad shed stopping the new fresh from breathing and causing the new skin to rot!!
When your Retic is coming up to shed you should have a bowl big enough for it to submerge in but this isn’t always possible, I always use one of the spray bottles with a fine mist setting and mist my snakes and there enclosure some times up to four times a day the more moisture there is on your snake the easer it will shed, also try to give your Retic something to rub up against to help with shedding, rocks, cork bark or drift wood are all good!!

Diet
Everything from pinkys to lambs and possibly bigger!
Hatchlings up to a year
Feeding your Retic hatchling can be done every 3-4 days at young but you run the risk of ending up with a big snake with a tiny head (pin head) if your feeding to much! I would personally feed my retic a prey item just a bit bigger in girth than the snake. Pinkys, rat pups, small rats to medium rats.
Yearlings up to two years
I would tend to start slowing down with the feeding and start feeding once every week, once again not feeding too much of a large prey item, by this time your retic should be on large rats to possible even rabbits.
Sub adulthood two to four years
This is where things change, still feed once a week but I would start feeding bigger and more depending on the snake of course, by this time I would like to think the retic should be on rabbits hopefully large rabbits, I would try to feed at least one to two large rabbits a week or a few Guinea pigs.

Adulthood
By this stage I would be feed maybe once every two weeks but on LARGE meals (depending once again on the snake) either large Guinea pigs probably four to six or large rabbits two to four maybe even lambs or goats.
And please remember do not over feed these snakes, they are fast growing as they are, plus like before I said what you put down your snakes throat has to come out one way or another, and believe me when I say this a snake regurge is one of the worst smells I have ever smelt!!!!
Pairing
Pairing and breeding Reticulated python can be Dangerous these snakes are not like Burmese pythons when breeding burms I would use two males to one female, you can NOT do this with retic’s NEVER put two male retic’s in together as they will battle each other with devastating bites and slashing’s to each other, I have a friend who bred this species years ago before there was any info on them and one of his males ended up with 180 stitch’s! Plus he almost ended up with a few him self when he had to separate them. Always make sure you have your retic’s sexed (IE probed) before pairing!!!
Males reach sexually maturity between three to four years and should be about ten feet minimum and slender, remember as long as the male is sexually mature its best to have a small slender male as these tend to be more sexually active than a stockier snake, some males could be ready sooner than others, like people some get there sooner than others!
Females tend to reach sexual maturity at four years and be a minimum of thirteen feet and a good weight, with female snakes hefty almost over weight is good, remember once the female has become gravid she will not eat until she lays the egg, and to gain a good healthy clutch of eggs you will need the female to be healthy and to have a good fat reserve is critical. The bigger the length of a female the better she will be for breading.
Breeding
Cooling these snakes can be dangerous if not done correctly, I would suggest dropping the temp 1 degree every week till you get both down to around 70s possibly even to 65F but no lower. The peak mating seasons for Retic’s are from September through November. Oviposition has been reported from December through to May.
Gestation periods can vary, it has been known from a single mating a gestation period of 65 to 105 days has happened. To my knowledge this variation is not temperature related. A good indication to tell if you’re a male is ready for breading is to check for sperm plugs.
Copulation



 

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Gravid females
Taking the eggs from the females and artificially incubating the eggs is the only way to go. I don't know anyone that leaves the eggs with the female. Taking the eggs from the female allows you to:
1. Directly control the environment that the eggs are in.
2. Get the female back on food in a matter of weeks.
3. make sure every egg has a chance of hatching. (The female can sometimes defecate on the eggs and it will cause them to turn bad)
You can make your own incubator, it’s not hard, but you have to build it around the massive clutch size of a retic. Your standard foam "hovabator" type incubator is completely useless in this situation. Many people find old refrigerator /Freezer/ drink coolers, and convert them into an incubator.
Hypothetically, you find an upright freezer, take out the shelves and clean it out very well, get you an 8-10ft piece of the 11" wide heat mat and stick it to the inner wall of the freezer, all the way around the sides and bottom. You’ll need 2-4 little computer fans, for air circulation. The idea is to have all the shelves in the incubator reading the same temperature. One fan facing down, one facing left, one facing up, one facing right, and you should be set there. Wire up the heat mat, drill a small hole in the freezer, thread an electric wire (extension cord with plug cut off) through the hole, wire it up, and make it safe so you don't shock yourself. Four to six small (1/4") air holes at the bottom should provide proper gas exchange.
OK, now most of the hard part is done, next you need to decide on a digital proportional thermostat. I would personally spend as much money as you can afford on a thermostat!!! End of the day you get what you pay for the last thing you want is to spend all this time and effort pairing, cooling, mating to have it all thrown away because of a cheap stat!!!
Contico high-top boxes to contain retic eggs while incubating. These boxes will comfortably fit any average retic clutch in them. I put 4, 1/16" holes (one in each corner) in the lid of the box for good gas exchange.
Next, put about 2 inches of vermiculite or a vermiculite/perlite mixture(50/50), the ratio of water to vermiculite is 1:1 by WEIGHT......confidentially, I have never weighed vermiculite in my life, I just go by when it feels right.
Now, your incubator has been running for a couple days, you’re happy with the ambient temperature, and you've figured out how to run your thermostat, you've even gotten anxious and made up a box of vermiculite and water days in advance of your female retic laying her eggs.
You walk into your snake room to discover your retic has laid her eggs things to do are:
1. Get some help, even if they are just watching and you are going to do all the work. At least one additional person besides you NEEDS to be there just in case even if it’s to laugh and take pictures of you getting nailed!!!
2. Have your incubation box handy so the eggs you are getting ready to steal can quickly go into the incubator.
3. Strategy is good, think of exactly how you want to move the female off the eggs. Mistakes at this point could cost you nice bill for stitches or even your life, remember those are HER BABIES, she will die for them.
4. Get some welders gloves (or a head to toe Kevlar suit) on and get the female off the eggs, carefully...
OK, she’s off the eggs; you will now notice that most if not all the eggs are stuck together quite firmly. If they aren’t try to gently separate them if they are DO NOT try and separate them from one another. Gently, move and lift the entire clutch out of the snake’s cage. If you are doing this from any serious distance from the ground, have your helper hold the incubation box under the clutch as you gently lower them to the ground.
OK, now your eggs are safely in their box, the female’s vivarium is closed, and you are making your way to the incubator with your new retic eggs.
You should have a digital thermometer or some sort of temperature sensor in with the eggs during incubation, it will help you be less paranoid.
Retic eggs take 87 days to hatch at 90 degrees, less than 90 they take longer to hatch, more than 90 they cook.
Check on them once every couple days, make sure the vermiculite feels like it’s still retaining moisture well and that all the eggs appear white, healthy and full, no collapsing.
Your female will not eat until she sheds, which will be 2-4 weeks after she laid her eggs. After she sheds, take her out and clean the cage very well, she will not eat if she still smells her eggs.

locals

These are just some of the locals as there are over 250 islands that retic’s originate from!!! These are just a few.
,Jampea, Bali , Sulawesi, Makasar, Seylar, Kaylota, Ambon, Sula, Kayuadi, Philippines, Sumatra, Malaysian, Moluccan, Button, Thailand, Honey Island, Halmahera, Gebe, Ambon, Ceram, Vietnam, Manila.
I’m not even going to try to name them all!
Morphs

1, White Albinos,
2, Lavender Albinos,
3, Purple Albinos,
4, Sunfires,
5, Super Sunfires,
6, White Albino Sunfires,
7, Lavender Albino Sunfires,
8, Purple Albino Sunfires,
9, White Albino Super Sunfires,
10, Lavender Albino Super Sunfires,
11, Purple Albino Super Sunfires,
12, Citrons,
13, Titaniums,
14, White Albino Citrons,
15, Lavender Albino Citrons,
16, Purple Albino Citrons,

17, White Albino Titanium’s,
18, Lavender Albino Titanium’s,
19, Purple Albino Titanium’s,

20, Genetic Stripes,
21, White Albino Genetic Stripes,
22, Lavender Albino Genetic Stripes,

23, Purple Albino Genetic Stripes,
24, Tigers,
25, White Albino Tigers,

26, Lavender Albino Tigers,
27, Purple Albino Tigers,
28, Sunfire Tigers,

29, Super Sunfire Tigers,
30, White Albino Sunfire Tigers,
31, Lavender Albino Sunfire Tigers,
32, Purple Albino Sunfire Tigers,
33, White Albino Super Sunfire Tigers,
34, Lavender Albino Super Sunfire Tigers,
35, Purple Albino Super Sunfire Tigers,

36, Citron Tigers,
37, Titanium Tigers,
38, White Albino Citron Tigers,

39, Lavender Albino Citron Tigers,
40, Purple Albino Citron Tigers,

41, White Albino Titanium Tigers,
42, Lavender Albino Titanium Tigers
43, Purple Albino Titanium Tigers
44, Genetic Stripe Tigers
45, White Albino Genetic Stripe Tigers
46, Lavender Albino Genetic Stripe Tigers
47, Purple Albino Genetic Stripe Tigers
48, Super Tigers
49, White Albino Super Tigers
50, Lavender Albino Super Tigers
51, Purple Albino Super Tigers
52, Sunfire Super Tigers
53, Super Sunfire Super Tigers
54, White Albino Sunfire Super Tigers
55, Lavender Albino Sunfire Super Tigers
56, Purple Albino Sunfire Super Tigers
57, White Albino Super Sunfire Super Tigers
58, Lavender Albino Super Sunfire Super Tigers
59, Purple Albino Super Sunfire Super Tigers
60, Citron Super Tigers
61, Titanium Super Tigers
62, White Albino Citron Super Tigers
63, Lavender Albino Citron Super Tigers
64, Purple Albino Citron Super Tigers
65, White Albino Titanium Super Tigers
66, Lavender Albino Titanium Super Tigers
67, Purple Albino Titanium Super Tigers
68, Genetic Stripe Super Tigers
69, White Albino Genetic Stripe Super Tigers
70, Lavender Albino Genetic Stripe Super Tigers
71, Purple Albino Genetic Stripe Super Tiger

72, Sunfire Citron
73, White Albino Sunfire Citron
74, Lavender Albino Sunfire Citron
75, Purple Albino Sunfire Citron
76, Sunfire Citron Tiger
77, White Albino Citron Sunfire Tiger
78, Lavender Albino Citron Sunfire Tiger
79, Purple Albino Citron Sunfire Tiger
80, Sunfire Citron Super Tiger
81, White Albino Sunfire Citron Super Tiger
82, Lavender Albino Sunfire Citron Super Tiger
83, Purple Albino Sunfire Citron Super Tiger


Dominance and Co-Dominance

Tiger- co-dom
Supertiger- co-dom
Sunfire- co-dom
Suntiger- double co-dom (sunfire/tiger)
Albino, Amel, Type2,- recessive
Albino tiger- recessive albino / co dom tiger
Gentic stripe- recessive
Fire/Platnium- co-dom (het ivory)
Golden Child- co-dom
Calico- unproven but possibley some kind of recessive




THIS CARE SHEET IS JUST MENT AS GUIDE LINES TO KEEP THESE SNAKES AND I DO NOT TAKE ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PROBLEMS OR MISFORTUNES YOU MAY HAVE WITH YOUR REPTILE.
 

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great read !!!!

but your combo and morph list is well out of date:lol2:
 

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gotta say this is the best care sheet iv seen for retics. if the morph list is out of date so what! morphs are coming about all the time but the info is second to none. thanks sir snakey, that must have taken some time and research:no1::no1::no1::no1:
 

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nice care sheet, would go a little lower on the average for males to breed, i'd say 2-3 years is closer with some males going at a younger ages:2thumb:
 
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