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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My Royal Python Maisy seems to have some white marks on her scales which look like burns, although they are very small. Now, she’s had a bit of retained shed on her head and not sure if this is a result of that. There is also white marks around the eyes which is usaully signs of mites, but i'm pretty sure thats not the issue. The temperatures at night are 72 F in the hot side and 69 F in the cold side. During the day the temperature in the hot side is 92 F and in the cold side it is 79 F. The temperatures in the day are provided by a 40W basking lamp and at night the heat is provided by a heat mat and both are on a 12 hour cycle. I’m not sure weather these are burns from the light or not, but the light has a bulb guard on it but that does get hot. Only other thing I can think of is it may be due to the humidity which is at night 70% and during the day 55%. Also, I was away for the weekend and when I came back I noticed the heaters hadn’t been on because the plug had been knocked out and I’m unsure of how long there’s been no heat source for. I’m pretty sure the temps and humidity are fine as she’s been in there with them like it for about 3 weeks now. I’m just wondering if these are a result of anything to do with the temps or humidity or whether it’s just something that can happen. I am just bathing her to get the retained shed of and then i will post up some pictures. Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pretty sure their not the scale pattern as they never used to be there and they are crispy.

It was extremely hard to get pictures so sorry about the quality.

White marks...

Pink mark under head...
 

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try using a smaller water bowl for a bit, and see if it clears up (after shed) if tha animal gets any worse take her to a vet :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks I appreciate your help, I shall wait for the next shed to see what happens. I think it may just be down to a bad shed.
 

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It's hard to tell on the pics - but the white bits could well be shed that hasn't come off, the pink bit on the head though, that doesn't look right - it does look a bit like a burn, but like I said, it's difficult to tell on the pics.

I think your cool side is too cool for a BP it should be 82-84 on cool side. What are you measuring your temps and humidity with? Those stick on thingies or analog thermometers are not accurate at all.

Do you have a reputable herp shop near you you could take your snake into? Even with pics it's sometimes hard to diagnose things on the internet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I've put a heat mat under the tank at the cool side to increase it into the 80's. I'm usuing a hagen dial thermometer on both sides and a hagen dial hygrometer in the middle of the tank. I'm pretty sure it's not retaned shed because it wasn't there when i bought her.
 

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hmm, temp's are way wrong, sorry.

You need to up them a lot more. I'm not quoting this, but it's exactly the truth..

88-95F for basking (24/7 - unless breeding)

Ambient temp's should be 80-85f during the day (remember this is not a basking spot), and ambient temp's at night 75-80F (if you go this route.. remember this is only TOLERABLE temperatures, they prefer 80-85F all the time). personally.. leave the ambient temps at between the 75-80 mark and they will be fine.. i've my ambient temp's at 77F at the moment. Adjusting this any other way is not healthy, i find the snakes will end up not feeding.. and like you;ve said.. bad shedding... leaving the temp's constant is perfect for them, unless breeding... if you really want me to dig deep i will quote you info from a VERY reliable book, written by Kevin McCurly.

For shedding, usually they shed easily if they feed well, and if they are not feeding well, then you will have to spray them a little during shedding (or just wet the cage a bit, but not too much, or too often).. i think a lot of people think humidity is a really big thing for royals, but it's not, they are from dry habitats, and only require 40-60% humidity. so over exaggerating this can produce a lot more unneccasary problems, like respiratory.

At the end of the day, it also can be down to how creative you can create a humidity hide for your royal.. hopefully this info helps you :) . I know light cycles put royal's off food.. fair enough, this is when you need to do something during shedding.

Edited: I've said this, assuming your snake doesn't pamper itself in water regularly.. if they do this themselves then they have usually got a good providing habitat.
 

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Justin_P said:
I'm usuing a hagen dial thermometer on both sides and a hagen dial hygrometer . .
I'd try and get a digital - you can get a digital in/out that will measure temps both sides simultaneously. One of mine will measure the RH too. When I first switched I was amazed at the difference in accuracy between the dial/analog ones and the digitals.
I got both mine off ebay pretty cheaply.

This is the exact one I got a few years ago (but a lot cheaper now GRRRRR!)

It measures temps in/out and humidity
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Digital-in-ou...63QQihZ015QQcategoryZ1285QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I can also recommend the seller as I've bought from him in the past and he sells on ebay a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
royalpython said:
hmm, temp's are way wrong, sorry.

You need to up them a lot more. I'm not quoting this, but it's exactly the truth..

88-95F for basking (24/7 - unless breeding)

Ambient temp's should be 80-85f during the day (remember this is not a basking spot), and ambient temp's at night 75-80F (if you go this route.. remember this is only TOLERABLE temperatures, they prefer 80-85F all the time). personally.. leave the ambient temps at between the 75-80 mark and they will be fine.. i've my ambient temp's at 77F at the moment. Adjusting this any other way is not healthy, i find the snakes will end up not feeding.. and like you;ve said.. bad shedding... leaving the temp's constant is perfect for them, unless breeding... if you really want me to dig deep i will quote you info from a VERY reliable book, written by Kevin McCurly.

For shedding, usually they shed easily if they feed well, and if they are not feeding well, then you will have to spray them a little during shedding (or just wet the cage a bit, but not too much, or too often).. i think a lot of people think humidity is a really big thing for royals, but it's not, they are from dry habitats, and only require 40-60% humidity. so over exaggerating this can produce a lot more unneccasary problems, like respiratory.

At the end of the day, it also can be down to how creative you can create a humidity hide for your royal.. hopefully this info helps you :) . I know light cycles put royal's off food.. fair enough, this is when you need to do something during shedding.

Edited: I've said this, assuming your snake doesn't pamper itself in water regularly.. if they do this themselves then they have usually got a good providing habitat.
Cheers, I've got a heat mat always on under the cool side now and the temps are as follows, cool side day 83 F and 80 F at night, basking spot is now about 93 F. So I shall wait and see what happens after her next shed. I will also be changing to the digital thermometers, which I have been meaning to for a while now, for my royal and my other snakes. Many thanks for all your help guys, great forum!
 
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