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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone tell me what make or type of digital thermometer I need and would I need two, one at each end of the viv. I'm also still worried if the 100 spot is too hot for my size viv. It's 4ft x 12" x 12"

I'm also confused as to the night heat issue as previous owner didn't use anything I was going to take out the 100w of a night and put in a 60w red bulb or put in a ceramic one for heat of a night. I've read about dimmers but don't understand what one to get for the basking bulb so as to use that of a night please help i feel a right numtee :?
 

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temps etc are fully governed by the whats in the box rule give us what youve got in there and we can give you the heats required but it all depends on what youre keeping is it geckos , frilled lizards, without that telling you anything would be useless and suicidal possibly for the reptile lol if youre not sure what it is post a pic and we can identify it and post the heats etc full caresheet
 

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i just backtracked through the forum and take it your on about a bearded dragon hes the info u need remember it should only be about 100 under the spot everywhere else should drop to about 75 the reptile needs this to be able to thermoregulate itself

The minimum size cage for up to 2 adult dragons should be 48" x 24" x 24". Several basking sites should be provided under the hot spot and the UV lighting. Bearded Dragons need to bask and they need high temperatures to help with the digestive process. Basking area should be about 100 degrees Fahrenheit with an ambient temperature of 75F and then dropping to about 65F at nighttime.

Bearded Dragons need to have UV running along the top of the tank. In the wild they bask in the sun to absorb the vitamins from their food. Obviously in a tank they won't receive much sun so a UV will act as the sun. Bearded Dragons need to tell the difference between night and day, to do this you need to have your UV bulb on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. The UV must be within 12" of the bearded Dragon to enable the dragon to get the full benefit of the UV bulb. Your UV bulb will need to be changed once a year as it loses its efficiency. You will need a ceramic heating bulb and a pulse thermostat to control the temperature of the tank. You will also need a thermometer inside the tank so that you can check they are being kept at the right temperature. Some people use 2 thermometers, one at the cooler end and one at the hotter end to monitor the temperature range. If you use only one thermometer then place it in the middle of the tank towards the bottom.
A substrate is known as the material to line the bottom of the tank and these can range from newspaper, bark, and sand for reptiles.
Never use hot rocks, as they are widely known to cause belly burns.
 

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You can get max/min digi thermometers from ebay... guy called monitors direct. I've ordered from him for most of mine and they are great. Small compact also has humidity readings on them! About £12 inc delivery....

If you wanted a cheap fix though try Maplin. They have some for about 8 quid and all do the job fine!
 

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Gay said:
Can someone tell me what make or type of digital thermometer I need and would I need two, one at each end of the viv. I'm also still worried if the 100 spot is too hot for my size viv. It's 4ft x 12" x 12"

I'm also confused as to the night heat issue as previous owner didn't use anything I was going to take out the 100w of a night and put in a 60w red bulb or put in a ceramic one for heat of a night. I've read about dimmers but don't understand what one to get for the basking bulb so as to use that of a night please help i feel a right numtee :?
100 is not too hot at all, juveniles like their basking temps at 105-110, adults tolerate a little less around 100-105. That viv is really not deep enough for a fully grown BD, it will have trouble turning around with only 12 inches to play with, but if your dragon is only young that is not a problem yet. At night I would use a ceramic to keep the tank warm, although if your tank doesn't go below 70 degrees at night, you dont need it anyway, any form of light disturbs a BD's sleep, much like a human.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Fistly thanks for all your help. Sorry I forgot to mention what I have. He's a bearded dragon and according to his previous owner 2 yrs old. He has a lovely temperment, sadly no claws on his right side front and back - apparently she got him like that. The tank (i've just measured is 48"wide x 18" high x 15" Depth) the uv light is about 14" from the him. I've replaced the 100w spot with a 60w spot as the dial thermometer was going off the gauge (my living room is very warm) it is now showing at just over 110f. The guy in my local pet shop who has beardies and other reps said he never uses a 100w. The therm is on the back wall and have one at the cool end. Under the spot is a log and a large slate but I'm a bit concerned at he doesn't really bask and all I've read says they should to aid digestion. He seems happy enough although as he's my first beardie that could be wishful thinking.

He is being fed 2 large locusts a day and I put different veg etc., in his feeding dish but he has only eaten a little bit of lettuce in the week that I've had him. I've been putting in mixed green lettuce, water cress, sweet corn, carrot and even tried a bit of banana but doesn't seem interested.

I get him out a couple of times a day and he sits on my lap, as I want him to get used to me. I then spray him with water before putting him back in.

Is there a way I can send pics of my set up for you all to see. Ta Gay :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Photo of Elvis

I hope this works

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b60/wolfcalluk/PC230060.jpg[/img]
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yippee, this seemed to work

:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is a pic of my viv

How does the set up look, please advise if there seems to be anything wrong thanks :)

 

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thats a lovely set-up :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks do you think it's okay with just one basking light and the uv tube or would I also need a ceramic one as well. As subject heading states I'm still confused even with fab advice from people.

I think I've been reading too many things and am completely fogging myself with it all.

I also need to ask about the locusts I feed Elvis - the previous owner just dusted them with calcium when she gets them and then didn't do anything else aren't I supposed to feed them or something?
 

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if your basking site is reaching 100F (40C) then you won't need a ceramic bulb. the best way to check this is with a temp gun as the dials you stick on viv tend not to work.
as with the crickets and locust etc you should feed them at least 24hours before they are fed to beardy (this is called gut loading). you can feed them things like apple, carrot etc.
also don't dust you insects to often as you can over do it and cause calcium blockages in lizards. you should ideally do it 2-3 times a week.
oh and make sure your dragon can get within 12 inches of the uv tube as it only reaches this far.
hopefully i haven't confused you :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for that. Well the thermometers that I have show over 100 but I suppose i won't get a reliable reading until I get a digital one.

ooer, I haven't been giving locusts any grub, just misting them occasionally as previous owner didn't mention this. I did read somewhere that there is such a thing on the market called 'complet insect feed' have you heard of this or know of anywhere I could get it.

I must confess to being a total coward when it comes to insects. Thankfully the previous owner was the same and she showed me how she used to feed elvis by holding the tub infront of him with the lid pulled up and letting him help himself to a couple. It's if the little buggers jump out i'm freaked, lol. Should I get a seperate tank or something to keep locusts in?

He has the log that would get him highter to the tube light but doesn't climb on it at all. Also he doesn't have claws on his right side front and back, she said she got him like that so I don't know if that impedes his climbing abilities at all. Should i try and get more raised things in the viv - I'm worried that it would be a bit crowded in there then.

I'm now getting worried about the substrate as what's in there is crushed walnut and I have quite a bit left that she brought over with the viv. I've read that it's dangerous. Actually I've read so much conflicting things on substrate I have no idea what will be best to use when this runs out.
 

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right...........
the locust and cricket...i put them in plastic tubs with a lid on top and i feed them in there, they can also move about better. as for the complete insect food, well i found it easier to cut up some fruit and veg and feed them that. its just as cheap, plus with the complete insect food you have to make it into a mush and then give it um, load of hassle if you ask me.

when i got my first lizard i used to shake and sweat whenever it came to feeding them crickets. i was terrible, couldn't even pick tubs up without gettin scared (stupid i know). anyways so i used, and still do, tweezers (plastic reptile ones). with this i can hand feed all reps, then i also know whos eaten what. plus when your dusting the insects you can dunk them into calcium powder and it'll stay on better (i find)

as for him climbing, you dont need to put more things in you could just move the uv lghting so it's on the back wall, bout half way down. my water dragon doesn't have any toes and she gets about fine :D

as for substrate, if he's been on it all his life i can't see why you'd need to change it.
 

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when if came to feeding i wiil put what ever he is eatting in to a nescafe jar the you just put you cal in to that give it a shake then put them in to the viv
 

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basky said:
if your basking site is reaching 100F (40C) then you won't need a ceramic bulb. the best way to check this is with a temp gun as the dials you stick on viv tend not to work.
as with the crickets and locust etc you should feed them at least 24hours before they are fed to beardy (this is called gut loading). you can feed them things like apple, carrot etc.
also don't dust you insects to often as you can over do it and cause calcium blockages in lizards. you should ideally do it 2-3 times a week.
oh and make sure your dragon can get within 12 inches of the uv tube as it only reaches this far.
hopefully i haven't confused you :D
I must correct some things here.. Your dragon needs to get within 6 inches of the UV tube, not 12. 12-18 inches is for a MVB (mercury vapour-bulb) which are harmful below 12 inches. The basking site should be at least 100, ideally ranging from 100-105. You should supplement his livefood 6 days a week with calcium and the 7th with a multivitamin.

As an adult BD he should be eating approx 30 crickets / locusts a week and the rest vegetables. If you need a list of suitable vegetables for a beardie check this link: http://www.beautifuldragons.503xtreme.com/Nutrition.html.

Substrate: crushed walnut can be dangerous if he is eating in his vivarium. If he picks some up, BDs cannot choke or cough so he will have to swallow it. I would recommend ceramic tiles or reptile-carpet as a substrate, i've found they are easier to clean and cheaper.

For feeding, you could use a toilet roll with one end blocked off. Leave this in the locust cage and then when you pick it up, some are bound to be in it. Cover one end until your in his cage, and then open it to allow some to escape.

You won't need to add anything else to climb in in your viv as bearded dragons are arboreal lizards and very clumbsy climbers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Cheers you've all been really helpful and given me some great ideas - especially with the pesky locusts, ugh!!!

Do you know where i can get reptile carpet from that's not too expensive - pennies count and all that, lol :wink:
 

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the thing is in the wild they aren't going to have tiles or carpet on the floor. i've just rescued one that has been living on builders sand which certainly isn't appropriate. however it's still alive. you can't keep it in an empty viv just incase it falls or eats something its not supposed to. i no its worrying incase they do hurt themselves but like i said if he's lived on crushed walnut for 2 years without a problem, why change it now?
 

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oh yeah and if you hand feed with tweezers the dragon won't have an accident and eat substate.
 
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