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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Sorry i know you lot prob hate newbie questions but my thinking is if i dont ask i wont know. So here go the questions
1. How often should i feed my leopard gecko she is one .
2 .I saw a vid on ebay the other day about feeding crickets cooked mash and carrot's etc it that right.
3. what other food can i feed the crickets and meal worms
4. Have her light on for 12 during the day and off for 12 hours during the night is this correct. Was advised by ameyzoo in bovingdon to do that .
4. I would love to have some kind of light on her in the evenings so i can watch her, would it be ok to use some led strip light thingy that i have seen being sold on here .
5. her temps in tank are 80 hot side and 24 cold side is that ok .
6. how many crickets and meal do i feed her per feeding session.
7. she doesnt seem to be bothered to go hunting for her dinner but if i plp it in front of her she will go and get it . is she just lazy or am i doing something wrong .
8. i have a meal worm dish that has i raised lid so they cant get out i dont know if it too high as she doesnt seem interested in getting in there and getting the meal worms out .its the meal worm dish from pets at home .

Ok think i have picked your brains enough for today , sure i will think of more thinks i need to know soon .


I am really sorry about the questions but i simply dont know the answers myself :blush:.
Thanks
Maria
 

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Sorry i know you lot prob hate newbie questions but my thinking is if i dont ask i wont know. So here go the questions
1. How often should i feed my leopard gecko she is one .
2 .I saw a vid on ebay the other day about feeding crickets cooked mash and carrot's etc it that right.
3. what other food can i feed the crickets and meal worms
4. Have her light on for 12 during the day and off for 12 hours during the night is this correct. Was advised by ameyzoo in bovingdon to do that .
4. I would love to have some kind of light on her in the evenings so i can watch her, would it be ok to use some led strip light thingy that i have seen being sold on here .
5. her temps in tank are 80 hot side and 24 cold side is that ok .
6. how many crickets and meal do i feed her per feeding session.
7. she doesnt seem to be bothered to go hunting for her dinner but if i plp it in front of her she will go and get it . is she just lazy or am i doing something wrong .
8. i have a meal worm dish that has i raised lid so they cant get out i dont know if it too high as she doesnt seem interested in getting in there and getting the meal worms out .its the meal worm dish from pets at home .

Ok think i have picked your brains enough for today , sure i will think of more thinks i need to know soon .


I am really sorry about the questions but i simply dont know the answers myself :blush:.
Thanks
Maria
Firstly, this forum is all about coming together and sharing information. If anyone says they hate helping newbies they shouldn't be a part of this community. You're completely right, if you don't ask you won't know, so don't ever be afraid or worried about asking.

To address your questions in order;

All Leo's can be different with feeding frequency. You can feed it every night, but you may find she doesn't have the appetite for it. You could feed her every other day and there could still be the odd day she doesn't fancy it. Just try not to let it worry you if she misses the odd feed. The important thing is to make sure she stays in proportion and doesn't become over/underweight. Also that's she's getting all the supplementation she needs. Over time you'll work out how frequently she wants to eat.

I've never used any cooked vegetables for gutload. They eat them raw just fine and I'd imagine that some parts of the veg could be lost in the cooking process. If you look at this nutritional guide, pretty much anything you can feed an omnivore/herbivore reptile you can use as a gutload http://www.beautifuldragons.com/Nutritionframeset.html

A light cycle of 12 to 12 is fine. If you want a light for night time viewing you might want to consider a blue LED light. This way the light isn't so harsh at such a late hour for them. Even still you shouldn't keep it on for more than a couple of hours in the evening. It's important that your Leo has a period of complete darkness.

I'd suggest your temperature in the warm side is really rather low. You actually want it around 90F or 32C. The cool side temperature is something that will fluctuate naturally with ambient temps in the room so isn't such a concern.

Feeding quantity, like frequency, is also dependent on the Leo. On most occasions a leopard gecko will stop eating if they've had enough or show a visible lack of interest. Sometimes when they overeat it actually makes them sick and they learn from that. This is something you'll learn with her as you feed.

For her laziness, does this include crickets or just mealworms? Mealworms aren't a very enriching food and Leo's respond to them accordingly. I'd suggest you buy a tub of appropriately sized locusts, gutload and dust, and put them into the viv and let them run free for her to hunt.

For the dish, not all Leo's are great at working out how to feed from a dish. A lot of people who use dishes will opt for a see through one such as a tea light holder. That way the Leo can actually see the prey item. Unfortunately mealworms stop moving after a while and the lack of movement means the Leo won't notice them. A way to counteract this is to put a piece of carrot in the dish in the hope the mealworms stay active and eat the carrot. Doesn't always work though. I don't use a dish for mealworms, I get mine out of their vivs and into a separate container which I use for feeding mealworms. This way the mealworms 'run' and entice the Leo a lot more. And I consider it part of my handling routine and enjoy doing it.


Hope I've been able to answer your questions. If you have anymore or require elaboration then please feel free to ask :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the great reply Jestrone its really helpful.

I have turned the heat up so hopefully that's that subject sorted.

I have a little clear Tupperware pot would i be better to put the meal worms in there , then she would be able to see them ?

Her laziness is for both meal worms and crickets .
She will stand and watch the crickets walk past yet it i put on right in front of her she will pounce on it .

When we brought her home there was about 12/14 crickets just wondering around in there , i took them out of the advice of others on here .

I am not sure if her previous owner fed her by hand maybe that's why she does it i have only had her 6 days.

Can you post any pictures of how you do your meal worms please.

I thought crickets would be too big for her as i was told the insect should be bigger then the distance between her eyes ?

Also do leopard geckos climb ?
Thanks Maria
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh and another thing dont know if i dare say this but she is on calci sand, its what she has always had with the other owners . I know for a lot of people its a huge no no . Would you advice me to change it to something else and it so what i dont really want to use kitchen roll.

whilst i think of it i wanted to know about the moss/cold hide .
I put a empty cricket box in there cut a door way out and put poss in it and she wouldn't even look at it let alone go in there so i have taken the moss box out and bought her a bigger cool cave and put damp kitchen roll in there am i right in doing that ? I haven't seen her go in it yet .

She also looks like she may have a tiny bit of skin left on her toe from a previous shed should i remove this and if so how do i do it .
Thanks Maria
 

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Thanks for the great reply Jestrone its really helpful.

I have turned the heat up so hopefully that's that subject sorted.

I have a little clear Tupperware pot would i be better to put the meal worms in there , then she would be able to see them ?

Her laziness is for both meal worms and crickets .
She will stand and watch the crickets walk past yet it i put on right in front of her she will pounce on it .

When we brought her home there was about 12/14 crickets just wondering around in there , i took them out of the advice of others on here .

I am not sure if her previous owner fed her by hand maybe that's why she does it i have only had her 6 days.

Can you post any pictures of how you do your meal worms please.

I thought crickets would be too big for her as i was told the insect should be bigger then the distance between her eyes ?

Also do leopard geckos climb ?
Thanks Maria
The clear Tupperware may do a better job.

It is possible she's so used to getting hand fed that she doesn't see the point in expending energy to hunt them herself. You want to try and break the habit which is why I suggested locusts. Crickets aren't great for leaving in a vivarium unattended because they can nibble your gecko, locusts are much better. If you leave them in there with her, even over night, she should eat them herself.

Basically when I feed mealworms I take them out one by one and transfer them into a shoebox after having a short handle. I then put the mealworms one by one as far away as possible so they have to move to eat them. It doesn't sound like much, but it's better enrichment than eating from a pot in my opinion.

The rule of thumb is the prey item should be no wider than the space between the eyes. However slightly bigger isn't going to cause an issue. It's only said to stop beginners from feeding young reptiles really big prey. On the same line of thought, sometimes a reptile won't actively hunt the prey if it's too small. The energy required to catch isn't warranted due to the small size.

Leopard geckos can and, when given the opportunity, do climb. However they aren't great at getting down once they're up. If you're going to offer something to climb then make sure it's very easy to get down from.



oh and another thing dont know if i dare say this but she is on calci sand, its what she has always had with the other owners . I know for a lot of people its a huge no no . Would you advice me to change it to something else and it so what i dont really want to use kitchen roll.

whilst i think of it i wanted to know about the moss/cold hide .
I put a empty cricket box in there cut a door way out and put poss in it and she wouldn't even look at it let alone go in there so i have taken the moss box out and bought her a bigger cool cave and put damp kitchen roll in there am i right in doing that ? I haven't seen her go in it yet .

She also looks like she may have a tiny bit of skin left on her toe from a previous shed should i remove this and if so how do i do it .
Thanks Maria
I'd strongly suggest removing the calci-sand 100%. It's basically a scam product and not worth even considering. Any loose particle substrate can be a danger for leopard geckos. The safest option is to get some Lino/vinyl flooring. It's easy to clean and no impaction risks. You could also try repti-carpet too. If you want to keep a loose particle substrate then play-sand is the best option because it has a smaller particle than most. But you have to be sure your gecko is good at catching prey without ingesting substrate.

There's two possibilities with the moss hide you made. She could well be using it late at night when you're asleep. Or she could be avoiding it because it's see through and doesn't feel secure. Remake the moss hide using an opaque tub, even something like a margarine tub, and use that instead. You might not see her use it at all but it doesn't mean she isn't.

If she has stuck shed, try soaking it with lukewarm water in a cricket tub. Not deep, just enough to clear her toes. You could use a moist cotton bud to slowly rub the skin off. It's important it's done as soon as possible. Stuck shed on toes gets tighter and tighter and eventually the toe falls off. Don't fret though you've got more than enough time before then. She could even get it off herself on her next shed.

Hope that's helped :)
 

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I would advise against using loose particle substrate too. Like Jesterone said you have to be sure your lizard is good at catching prey. One of mine is certainly not and that is why he is on non adhesive lino because he is a clumsy feeder it minimizes risk and is a lot easier to clean :)
-Chels
 
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