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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi!
I have a monitor, varanus tirtis (black-head monitor) 3 years old, bred in captivity, after transporting lizard to my home, he get a cold, A runny nose started, in vet they say "it's normal, stress and other stuff" After a couple of days it stopped, but lizard constantly scratches its nose. He's eating, active, all good, but when he's lying down, you can see it in his nose... I don't know if something is stuck, when it's on your hands or active, everything disappears, does anyone know what the problem is?

Photo:
https://i.imgur.com/2s3NtpG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oSyszfo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HWt3xfu.jpg
 

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Hi!
I have a monitor, varanus tirtis (black-head monitor) 3 years old, bred in captivity, after transporting lizard to my home, he get a cold, A runny nose started, in vet they say "it's normal, stress and other stuff" After a couple of days it stopped, but lizard constantly scratches its nose. He's eating, active, all good, but when he's lying down, you can see it in his nose... I don't know if something is stuck, when it's on your hands or active, everything disappears, does anyone know what the problem is?

Photo:
https://i.imgur.com/2s3NtpG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/oSyszfo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/HWt3xfu.jpg
Hi, I cannot see anything unusual from the photos, can you crop the head shot to zoom right in to the nostril, can you also show the whole enclosure and give details of the conditions?
 

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I enlarged the photo, I still cannot see anything unusual in the nostril, you might try spraying his nose with warm water to see if there is something lodged inside.
You say the animal "got cold", was that during transporting it?
Can you show a few photos of the whole enclosure and give details of the conditions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The litter is spruce bark (allergies can not be, he lived three years in such a breeder) The light is controlled by a smart socket, 12 o'clock in the day, 12 o'clock at night, fed with chicken and bull hearts, shrimp, crickets (all in calcium) and mice, the Back wall is a decorative stone.
 

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Hi, thanks for answering, has i say, when he active, nose is clean, but here's a photo when he lay in he's enclosure:
(You may see, nose is close for something. Than not a mucus or other liquid stuff, i don't know what is it.)
https://i.imgur.com/hHBncoL.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PGReIcp.jpg

This is he's enclosure
https://i.imgur.com/knTCPv9.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/n17CYRF.jpg
Hi again, many species have a flap of skin inside the nostril that allows them to close it off, sometimes if you look very closely you may even see this when the monitor is breathing in and out (it is perfectly normal).
The bark is not the best, a mixture of topsoil and childrens playsand is far more beneficial even if the animal does no burrow it will still help to maintain the humidity, I would recommend a depth of at least 15cm, more if possible, it should be very slightly moist not wet, and pressed down quite firmly, a ratio of perhaps 70% soil to 30% playsand.
You must only feed whole prey, no lean meats, offal, etc (whole prey only refers to the complete animal whether an invert or vertebrate).
Tell me what the ambient (air) temperature is the the coolest parts of the enclosure then the basking SURFACE temp plus the humidity range and how you are measuring all those, also the wattage and type of heat/lighting including UVB bulb/tube?
Does the enclosure have a screen top?
I do not have much time just now but I will be online later today, please keep talking.
I think you have some adjustments to make and they are quite simple (but very important).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi again, many species have a flap of skin inside the nostril that allows them to close it off, sometimes if you look very closely you may even see this when the monitor is breathing in and out (it is perfectly normal).
The bark is not the best, a mixture of topsoil and childrens playsand is far more beneficial even if the animal does no burrow it will still help to maintain the humidity, I would recommend a depth of at least 15cm, more if possible, it should be very slightly moist not wet, and pressed down quite firmly, a ratio of perhaps 70% soil to 30% playsand.
You must only feed whole prey, no lean meats, offal, etc (whole prey only refers to the complete animal whether an invert or vertebrate).
Tell me what the ambient (air) temperature is the the coolest parts of the enclosure then the basking SURFACE temp plus the humidity range and how you are measuring all those, also the wattage and type of heat/lighting including UVB bulb/tube?
Does the enclosure have a screen top?
I do not have much time just now but I will be online later today, please keep talking.
I think you have some adjustments to make and they are quite simple (but very important).
Hi it's been a long time. You must forget about my, sorry. I read a lot about monitor and my black-head monitor is quite rare, care him is much harder then i think. =\

So, i figured out that my main problem was a shed inside nose, all other is a salt (what pretty usual) and ya, i started feed him dubia roches and madagascer roaches.

Don't know yet how to highly degree temperature inside enclosure, right now in 30 degree in hotspot (has i read, need 40) and 25 in cooler. If i use a thermal wiring i don't have a cool spot =\

He feel all right but sleep to much (i think this problem, may be not, don't know yet) almost whole day. Thanks about sand i try to change.
UVB https://www.amazon.com/REPTIZOO-Compact-Reptile-Rainforest-Tortoise/dp/B07CWMLLP9 (but on 28w) and lamp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4Y5HV...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= (something like that)
And i added rock with thermal mat underneath.
 
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