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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed my hognose snake has a sort of dark blotch on her side. Could it be scale rot or something similar?
351333
 

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Scale rot only develops with dampness. Its also found on the ventral scales not the flanks. It looks more like dirt stuck on the sides than anything else.
 

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It looks like dirt as Ian says, but when zooming in (which is hard to see) it looks like the splodges are also on top of the scales.

Have you got a guard for your heat source ? I wonder if that could be a burn ... If the snake is otherwise ok and it is indeed damages scales, the snake snake should go into shed soon as that is their way of 'fixing' themselves.

Also you can actually smell scale rot.

If worried you can of course always see a vet.
 

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A burn was my other thought. Having zoomed in more, it does seem that the dark area has quite a defined zigzag pattern which would support that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah a burn was my other thought. I thought that it might be scale rot because she has a jade plant in her cage which I water sometimes and my crested gecko is in the same room, which might effect the humidity of the room? Her heat source is a ceramic heat emitter (I'm starting to wonder if I should use a different heat source because I've heard mixed things about using that. It has a thermostat which I usually set to 86 - 88 degrees for her warm side). She gets a day/night cycle because she's near a window in the room, so she gets some natural UV on her warm side and there is also a lamp next to her cage which I turn on during the day. Should I get a guard for the heat emitter or a different heat source altogether?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
She has a water bowl on her cool side which you can't see in the image. The air conditioner in my living room keeps the apartment from getting too warm and the gecko cage stays in the upper 70s and the snake cage usually remains in the upper 80s on the warm side and the 70s on the cool side
 

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I got to say, I have a couple of White Python 150W ceramics and the guards they are selling with them. I actually burned my hand on the guard they get so hot. So I too have mixed feelings about it. I mean it is harder for the snake to wrap around a guard, but obviously it is possible. I had a horror vision of the snake wrapping around it when it is switched of by the stat and it getting super hot.

When the ceramic switches to day temps. - measure it with a temp gun to see how hot the guard gets (You DO have a guard right) .. I'd be surprised if you can touch it.

Anyway, if she is otherwise alright and do the usual, eat and poop, I'd see what happens after the next shed. As I say - if she got burned I'd expect her to shed soon ish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just went to my local pet store, talked to some of the people there, I think the wattage of the bulb was too high. Got a lower wattage bulb, hopefully that will solve the problem
 

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Ambient room humidity won't cause scale rot. It's caused by a snake having to sit in dirty damp substrate for quite a while.
Ceramics get seriously hot.
You could of course use a spot bulb. They don't need heat day and night, in fact hogs should be given a decent night time drop.
If you do swap to a spot lamp you will need a dimming thermostat.
Hopefully the next shed your snake has will clear whatever caused this and you will have a nice shiny hoggie again!
 

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My guess is that the thermostat is a simple ON/OFF type and the resulting temperature swings are too great that the mesh is getting hot when the start is on. Either replace the stat with a pulse or dimmer stat designed for reptile use. Ensure the probe is close to the heat source typically 6-8" below the heater so that you have better control.

I have my 100w ceramics set up inside a viv with a mesh cage and maintaining 32c temps form my royals on a pulse stat I can still hold the cage without any issue.

There is a sticky post at the top of this section that I wrote a while back which gives some good pointers on setting up heaters and thermostats - that may help
 

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Just went to my local pet store, talked to some of the people there, I think the wattage of the bulb was too high. Got a lower wattage bulb, hopefully that will solve the problem
Not sure I am buying the reasoning of the pet shop. It is more like the other way around. It all depends on the size of the cage and temp requirements but imagine you have a 600W bulb and you crank it up to get 32C. Now if you measure the inputs and outputs say you use 50% of its capacity. Just for the sake of argument. Now if you add a smaller wattage, the bulb potentially runs on full blast all the time to reach the same temperature. It will also need longer to heat up the same so it potentially gets hotter.

For example, I can leave a 150W on without a stat and it won’t reach the temps on the hotspot required. So they got extremely hot as they were running at 100% at all times.

You haven’t actually mentioned what stat you are using. Or is the reason the pet store suggested a smaller one because you don’t even use one ?
 

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You haven’t actually mentioned what stat you are using. Or is the reason the pet store suggested a smaller one because you don’t even use one ?
My guess is that its none of those "in line" things that were frequent in a lot of Chinese imports of reptile heat mats...
 
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