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57 Posts
Hey up everyone 
Just finished writing up my post to help deal with belly/scale rot and thought I'd also post up this little tip, which I found to work rather successfully...
Briefly, I didn't have any problems when I initially got my Royal Python, Lola, with regards to feeding. She has been captive bred, and often these are far less picky eaters than wild-caught or otherwise. But unfortunately, during (and after) a spell of belly rot, she went off her food for nearly 2 months in total, and did lose some weight.
Firstly, it's worth mentioning that snakes can go off food for one reason or another (there are plenty of threads which offer explanations already), but it's generally accepted that they can survive without eating for getting on for 6 months. SO DON'T PANIC TOO MUCH!!!!
Should you find you snake has stopped eating, and yet nothing has really changed and it seems healthy, there are a few tricks to try: feeding/rubbing prey on a gerbil (they smell more than rats/mice); defrosting and re-freezing the prey (to break down its cells more so it smells more pungeant); putting the prey in overnight in the warm area; making sure the prey is offered warm; putting both snake and prey in a paper bag inside its viv (not personally fond of this one); braining the prey i.e. smashing its head open - again for smell purposes (a bit messy and gross if you think too hard about it). Some Royals can also be fussy about the sex and/or colour of the prey you are feeding it...
However, one further trick, which I discovered kind of by accident, involves the regular prey (species and size) which you offer your snake... and a hairdryer...
Now, the hairdryer method did make the whole room stink, but it really got her going and made her want to eat. It completely altered her behaviour, from being completely disinterested, to coming out and trembling near where I was warming the mouse up. She just launched at it as soon as I put it in the viv and didn't let go!!!
I guess the lasting heat (which is how Royals sense their prey) combined with the smell did trick!
Hope this helps!
-Emma
N.B:
* Prey should never be offered wet to a snake. Should you run the prey under the tap in order to defrost/heat it up, place it in a plastic bag first. Wet prey can cause it not to be digested properly, or can cause issues with it easily passing through a snake's digestive system.
Just finished writing up my post to help deal with belly/scale rot and thought I'd also post up this little tip, which I found to work rather successfully...
Briefly, I didn't have any problems when I initially got my Royal Python, Lola, with regards to feeding. She has been captive bred, and often these are far less picky eaters than wild-caught or otherwise. But unfortunately, during (and after) a spell of belly rot, she went off her food for nearly 2 months in total, and did lose some weight.
Firstly, it's worth mentioning that snakes can go off food for one reason or another (there are plenty of threads which offer explanations already), but it's generally accepted that they can survive without eating for getting on for 6 months. SO DON'T PANIC TOO MUCH!!!!
Should you find you snake has stopped eating, and yet nothing has really changed and it seems healthy, there are a few tricks to try: feeding/rubbing prey on a gerbil (they smell more than rats/mice); defrosting and re-freezing the prey (to break down its cells more so it smells more pungeant); putting the prey in overnight in the warm area; making sure the prey is offered warm; putting both snake and prey in a paper bag inside its viv (not personally fond of this one); braining the prey i.e. smashing its head open - again for smell purposes (a bit messy and gross if you think too hard about it). Some Royals can also be fussy about the sex and/or colour of the prey you are feeding it...
However, one further trick, which I discovered kind of by accident, involves the regular prey (species and size) which you offer your snake... and a hairdryer...
- Defrost the prey, in whatever manner you normally use*, perhaps refreezing it and defrosting it again to make it smell more
- Place the prey on something suitable, very very close to the viv where your snake resides
- Take the hairdryer, and proceed to warm the prey up (on a low heat setting, and with minimum 'blowing' force!)
- The prey starts to smell very sweet, and of course, it is getting very warm
- Once warmed through (and warm or even verging on hot) to the touch, dangle into the viv - maybe using tongs if you usually do) and see if there is a reaction!
Now, the hairdryer method did make the whole room stink, but it really got her going and made her want to eat. It completely altered her behaviour, from being completely disinterested, to coming out and trembling near where I was warming the mouse up. She just launched at it as soon as I put it in the viv and didn't let go!!!
I guess the lasting heat (which is how Royals sense their prey) combined with the smell did trick!
Hope this helps!
-Emma
N.B:
* Prey should never be offered wet to a snake. Should you run the prey under the tap in order to defrost/heat it up, place it in a plastic bag first. Wet prey can cause it not to be digested properly, or can cause issues with it easily passing through a snake's digestive system.