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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there, i am after a leopard gecko. Could you please inform me of the types available (giants, hype, super hype? etc.). Why are some far more expensive than others? Is it just their colours?

Also, how old do they have to be before I can buy them. I am keen to take care of a gecko from a young age; ie, before it reaches adult size.

I am also unsure of how many to get. I am aware I cannot mix more than one male, so I would either be interested in a single male, or possibly 2/3 females.

This would be my first experience of owning a reptile.

For a tank/food, so far i have gathered this much:

Heat mat that covers half to a third of the tank. Themostat set to 33 degrees.
Tiles for floor.
Calcium supplement powder - in calcium dish in tank
Themometer
Hide box filled with moist moss or vermiculite. coconut?
Water Bowl
Food - crickets, mealworms, locusts, roaches (waxworms as treat - max 1-2 a week).
2-3 insects or 10-15 mealworms every 2-3 nights.
Dust insects with calcium and Nutrobal (or equivalent multivitamin supplement).
Live or artificial plants.

Is this all correct? Do i need lighting?

Basically want to know everything i need to start up.

Ive been reading the forums but there is a lot of info all over the place so it gets a bit confusing.

Thanks
Nathan
 

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The costs vary between the different colours ( or morphs) just have a look at which ones you like.
You could house adult male and female leos together but it's not recommended. He will bother them constantly during mating season and there could be fights at some point even between females.
Lighting is not necessary but in my viv I have a 5% uv bulb and a nightglo bulb.
I like to have 3 hides per Leo in mine and the moist hide. One on the warm side one on the middle and one on the cool side.
Everything else you mention is spot on.
Good luck buddy. Keep us posted
 

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some good advice given :2thumb:, just be carefull with lighting if you get a albino as they will not like it, an there has been cases of burning them (if albino) non albinos seem to be ok with lights, but as said not necessary.

good luck
 

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I keep forgetting the albino/lighting rule. The same applies to red eyes too I think. I have also found out this week that dubia roaches are an awesome feeder insect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks

so a light is not necessary, however if i want one i can get one?
what is the light for, just so i can see him?

i will probably just get one male in that case. can anyone recommend a good breeder/shop? preferably in south east england, however i don't mind travelling.

also, is it wise to buy a baby gecko? how old should i try to get?
 

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Hiya -

I'd read this as a start :

Leopard Gecko Care Sheets

I'd go for one a few months old from a respected breeder - try classifieds on here.

One that is well grown on and eating well would be ideal, let us know how you get on! :whistling2:
 

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The light can help with bone growth and the nightglo is for night viewing. Leos are most active at night however mine now know when I open the doors it's feeding time and come out to see me. Sleepydee is awesome for info. Gooduck keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
and im confused on heat mats! do i need a more powerful mat depending on what i put on the surface of the viv? I plan on putting tiles along the surface of my viv, so assuming i get the 24x15 inch viv in the post above, can anyone show me heat mat on the same site? will this be fine?

Habistat Heat Mat 6x11 inch 7W - Heatmats and Heatstrips - Reptile Heating - Blue Lizard Reptiles - Reptile Shop

do i need 3 hides and a moist hide? which side of the viv do i put the moist hide on? (hot or cool)
 

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Theres a really good caresheet on my website.

To answer your questions though -

Some are more expensive than others because of their colours yes. Colours are known as "morphs". There is a lot of info and pics about leos morphs on the leopard gecko wiki so you can have a look at a few and see what you like.

Leos should be over 8 weeks old before they are sold but more importantly they should be over 20g. This is because moving a leo is stressful for them and can cause them to lose their appetite for a week or two. If the leo is 20g it is much more robust and able to cope with that, people do sell leos smaller but you run the risk of having problems and its not worth it for a first leo!

Yes that vivarium would be fine for a leo but have a look on the classifieds on here - there are a lot of people selling vivs and equipment - new and second hand!

Heats mats increase in power as they increase in size so you cannot get different wattage in the same size of mat. A 6" x 12" mat would be perfect in a 24" x 15" viv.

2 hides - one on the cool side and one on the warm side plus a moist hide is fine. And you can put the moist hide on the cool side or half on cool, half on warm - its personal preference :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for that. really helped loads.

how exactly do the heat mats work? from the description of that mat, it doesn't sound like it goes on the floor? or am i wrong? would it still be effective if i put tiles over the top?

thanks
 

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thanks for that. really helped loads.

how exactly do the heat mats work? from the description of that mat, it doesn't sound like it goes on the floor? or am i wrong? would it still be effective if i put tiles over the top?

thanks
In a wooden viv, the heatmat should be inside the viv on the floor. Slate is quite a good thermal conductor, so the mat can go under the slate. Place the thermostat probe on the slate surface above the mat.

A heat mat is nothing unusual as a heater. It is simply an electrical resistor that heats up when current flows through it. They are designed not to get too hot, but can overheat if the heat cannot escape - which is why you shouldn't put them below a wooden viv. They are fine under (thinnish) slate, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ok thanks. is it possible that the heat mat will get too hot? am i able to turn it down?
 

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The thermostats control the heatmat temps. Plug your mat into the stat set the max temp on the stat dial and monitor the temps. Adjust the dial until you get your desired temp.
 

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Yeah, thermostats are seperate. You also need a thermometer to check the temperature, as the temperature stat on the thermostat is unlikely to be accurate - with a thermometer, you can just adjust this until thw temp is correct :) You need a thermometer for the cool side too, just to check, and temps should be taken from the floor on top of the substrate :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just bought all the equipment. Now i need to find a gecko. If you are a breeder, please contact me.

I am after 1 male leopard gecko.
 

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Have a look in the classified section of the forum. Or let us know roughly where you live - there might be a breeder close to you. There will also be far more babies available in a couple of months.
 
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