Hello everyone. A new bearded dragon mum here. We have his set up just right right, cool temps, warm, and basking area, anyway my question is, is his basking rock Too hot for his belly? I have a 4x2x2 Viv with a 75w Arcadia solar basking spotlight set 12 inches from the rocks top surface I regularly take the temp of the rock with a laser pointing thermometer (sorry can’t remember what it’s called but it’s hand held like a gun ) and it always comes back with 40-41c. Cactus the dragon is 3-4 months old. I really don’t want to burn the little loves belly. Is this too hot? And by chance if it isn’t for him as I know babies need more heat. Would it be too hot if he was an adult? Sorry for long winded question I just want to be a responsible loving beardie owner. Thank you x

Hi, the basking surface temp needs to range between approx 38 to 43c, the lower figure is likely to be on the outer edges of the basking site. The idea the "babies" require more heat is total nonsense, why would an animal perhaps x50 LESS in mass need higher temps, they will use the exact same range as juveniles/adults, obviously heating up that must faster?! People make these ridiculous claims in an effort to sound more knowledgeable than others, mostly they have simply repeated what someone else has said who has in turn repeated etc, etc, it then becomes a "rule"?
Can you show the whole enclosure and also say what the humidity range is and say what the ambient temps are throughout?

 

Hello again!

Generally speaking people use the term IR gun (Infra-red Gun) for the piece of equipment you mention.


Simply put when given a temperature gradient the animal will choose where it wants to sit, and it shouldn't burn itself. If anything it would be better to knock it up by a few degree to around 45c peak with some variation to allow better thermoregulation. The other factor is to take into account, is the ambient air temperature of the cool end, which during the day shouldn't drop below 24C, and during night can drop a few more degrees. With time a temperature gradient will form between these two locations and the animal can choose where it wants to bask and regulates its internal body temperature, i.e. if it wants to be warmer they'll go to bask, if cooler they'll move away from the heat.

While they can get burns, it won't happen from being a 45C, they are adapted to be exposed to temperatures significantly higher then this (record ambient temperature is 50C). They will of course reduce activity during the peak of the day to avoid the heat.

TM

 

The other factor is to take into account, is the ambient air temperature of the cool end, which during the day shouldn't drop below 24C, and during night can drop a few more degrees. With time a temperature gradient will form between these two locations and the animal can choose where it wants to bask and regulates its internal body temperature, i.e. if it wants to be warmer they'll go to bask, if cooler they'll move away from the heat.

While they can get burns, it won't happen from being a 45C, they are adapted to be exposed to temperatures significantly higher then this (record ambient temperature is 50C). They will of course reduce activity during the peak of the day to avoid the heat.

TM

Hi, I agree with much of your advise, but there are a couple points to be made:
You mention the ambient temp in the daytime should not fall below 24c, it can safely be nearer 21c in the coolest parts.
You then say the humidity range in captivity needs to be between 40 to 45%? In parts of their natural range it gets over 60% at times, even higher below the surface where they often seek shelter! In captivity I would recommend a humidity range between approx 30 to 60%+ (the lower figure would be around the basking site).
I mention this final point only in passing, nobody in this discussion has claimed it (so far)! These animals most definitely DO recognise standing water (many people will say they cannot) there MUST always be fresh drinking water available at all times.
I`ve never personally seen or heard of Bearded dragons "running away from the rain" (not to suggest they would spend an extended amount of time in it if it did occur)?

 

Thank you TM if possible I’d like pm you but not sure how? And thank you to the other reply I’m still getting used to this forum not sure how to post pics I’m afraid. The humidity is 35-40 depending on how hot my house is it seems. Is that ok?

 

Thank you TM if possible I’d like pm you but not sure how? And thank you to the other reply I’m still getting used to this forum not sure how to post pics I’m afraid. The humidity is 35-40 depending on how hot my house is it seems. Is that ok?

It depends on if you are mobile or computer. On PC when viewing a thread just click on their name and on the drop down menu click send a private message.

In terms of humidity, during the day it shouldn't drop below 35% and an ideal amount would be between 40-45%. If it consistently drops below 35% give a light misting to the basking area and it'll raise the humidity during the day, aim for the misting to not go above 60%. Another way around this is to move the water bowl closer to the warm end and as the water bowl heats up you'll notice a small rise in humidity.

This all depends on what substrate the dragon is on, as a suitable substrate will be designed to hold enough moisture to maintain humidity.

Is the cool end the ambient air temperature or surface temperature? If it is the air temperature, then its not the end of the world but ideally could drop it down abit, without knowing exactly how it is set-up can't recommend a way to drop the temperatures down without drilling a bit of extra ventilation.

Just a little addition, there is the stickied post:; https://www.reptileforums.co.uk/forums/lizards/1105953-basic-guide-keeping-bearded-dragon.html which goes through most of the basics of keeping bearded dragons, so might be worth having a quick read.

TM

 

Oh and his cool hideout side is 26c is that ok?

 

Hi TM I don’t have a water bowl in his vivarium as I mist it in the morning and mist Cactus on his body and head where he drinks the running water off him. I do this everyday. I was told by the guys in the shop not to put one in. One of these was the owner who had been breeding and handling reptiles and exotic animals for over 30 years. He’s a qualified zoologist and does tours and talks. The other guy had a dragon for 17 years. I have taken them at their word. Cactus has probeardie life substrate. Which is great and looks authentic to the outback lol if I knew what that looked like lol

 

Hi TM I don’t have a water bowl in his vivarium as I mist it in the morning and mist Cactus on his body and head where he drinks the running water off him. I do this everyday. I was told by the guys in the shop not to put one in. One of these was the owner who had been breeding and handling reptiles and exotic animals for over 30 years. He’s a qualified zoologist and does tours and talks. The other guy had a dragon for 17 years. I have taken them at their word. Cactus has probeardie life substrate. Which is great and looks authentic to the outback lol if I knew what that looked like lol

What you say is about supplying water by hand everyday, which is fine, its a good way to ensure they drink is to drop water onto its snout and if you start them young then they pick it up quick, no different to how they would act when caught in the rain, but also be aware they would run and hide to get out of the rain... very light spray is ok, actually getting them wet everyday isnt great for them long term, and a bad idea during shedding (and cold water can, at worst, give them thermal shock, needs to be at least room temp)

However, having a water bowl in there with a fresh daily supply is still a good idea. Position it in the cool end and it will help a little with humidity and it means if the animal wants water, it has access.
If you tie this in with dropping water on its snout over it so it sees movement in the water, you can teach them they have a fresh supply whenever they wants, rather than reliance on you.

Theres nothing saying you cant do both, it will drink what it wants to and they dont need huge amounts if they have a good daily supply to hydrate them (which includes live food and decent veg being supplied).

 

Thank you for your reply. Just to say I use warm water with the reptile water drops to make sure it’s suitable. Never cold. I would hate to be sprayed with cold water myself haha. I will try him with a shallow water bowl in the cool end and still mist him but make sure it’s more on his snout than body. And monitor his humidity. Like I said I’m very new to this I’ve always had the usual pets like cats and dogs. I still have two cats and a small dog now. He’s my first little guy so this forum is a great help to chat to experienced owners. Thank you

 

Oh and just to add it is a light spray. I never get him soaking as I’m conscious of where they originate from and they prefer dry arid conditions

 

only above ground and in the heat of the day. Where they spend much of the day (in the burrows, scrub and rock stacks) it is 80%+ humid and even more in the air at night....


We have kept these highly developed animals far far too dry for far too long. Its no wonder they drink like mad things when we put water in (which should ALWAYS be available. A shop could lose a licence if they didn't have fresh water in every cage).


Water is the glue of life, under provide at the animals peril.


With ref to your heat lamp, your stat will regulate the basking temperatures for you. Set the temp you want, place the probe correctly and double check with your non-contact. It should remain very stable at basking.

 

By "running from the rain" I mean that they dont sit out in it, and prefer cover.

I know full well you can find these guys sitting in puddles on a hot day, or roasting themselves on branches etc...but ive yet to see one happily out in the rain and not looking for cover.