Following on from Ryan's thread i thought i would try and add a little bit more depth to the Burmese python section from my own limited experience.
Introduction.
Burmese python's are incredible and fascinating creature's to keep and look after.Their impressive size and general docility means not only are they a spectacle to observe and study but that they often tolerate interaction more readily than many other species.
Average sizes of 12 to 15 feet for males and 14 to 18 for females can easily be exceeded but are a good guideline for a potential keeper to start preparations for.
It is difficult to explain the buzz and satisfaction that successfully keeping an adult burm can bring, i have yet to experience another facet of herpetoculture which is it's equal but with this in mind it has to be remembered that they are definately not for everyone.
Considerations.
Before committing to a purchase the potential customer has to ask themselve's a series of questions.
1. Do they have the room for a 8x4ft enclosure.
2. Do they have the finance's to heat, feed and pay for vetinary treatment that a giant python may require.
3. Do they have the stability to offer a 20+ year committment, no one can predict the future but job security, relationships and domestic personal situations should all be thoroughly considered at the time of purchase.
4. Do they have the knowledge and confidence to deal with an aggressive 16ft+ snake.
Set up.
All my snakes are kept in a room heated to an ambient temperature of between 78-82. From hatchlings i keep burmese pythons in appropriate sized RUBS with a statted heat mat set to 92. I use a substrate of newspaper with a water bowl in the cool end. Depending on the nature of the individual i may offer hide's, more often than not they will hide under the newspaper therefore not having to sacrifice between thermoregulation and security. I do not measure humidity, if the snake sheds in one piece then i know humidity is fine and the snake is hydrated. At around 4ft i move burms into a 4x2 vivarium, at around 7feet into a 6x3 or the viv they shall spend most of their adult life. Ahs heaters are ideal for heating large enclosure's but it is down to the individual to research what is best for them and their set up.
Feeding.
Young and juvenile burms can be fed every 4 to 5 days and have the capacity to digest meals larger than the standard guidelines for other species. A burmese python will do the majority of it's growing in the first couple of years of it's life, after the onset of sexual maturity the growth rate will slow considerably and so should the amount you feed. An adult burm may only require feeding 4 to 6 months of the year on larger prey items. Let the appearance of the snake guide you, if it is too lean feed more, overweight reduce the frequency and size of the prey. Do not be fooled by the snake acting hungry, feeding response is hardwired into burmese python's it doesn't mean that they always require feeding.
If you overfeed your pet fatty deposits will build up internally, putting pressure on the internal organs and leading to significantly shorter lifespans than should be expected.
The "stunting" of burmese python's is also possible by greatly reducing the availability of prey to the animal in the early years of it's life. If this is something a new owner is considering then a burmese python is not for them, it is detrimental to the snake's health and unethical.
Tap training/ Food association.
Do not use your burmese python as dustbin for the food other snakes have not eaten. Not only is this detrimental to the snake's health but it can lead to an incredibly food orientated animal which is difficult to interact with and potentially dangerous.
To help avoid this tap training can be initiated from as soon as a hatchling begins to calm down and stop being bitey. It is where the keeper rubs the head or flanks of the snake with their hand or a hook so the python knows it is to be handled and not fed.
Safety and good practice.
Size and owner stupidity can combine to make a Burms a dangerous animal to own, simply protocols and common sense can eliminate nearly all danger.
1. Make sure you use at least a viv lock. An escaped burm is a danger to domestic pets and children. Even the death of a ginger child could be enough to jeopordise hobbyist's future enjoyment. Remember a 20kg python is more than capable of pushing the runners out of the viv and escaping so extra attention should be paid to this area of viv security.
2. Keep all pythons seperate except for breeding attempts. This eliminates the majority of dangers come feeding time. Co habitting has no benefit to the python's at all. WIth experience co habitting may be an area you wish to explore but a fundamental grasp of the basics and ability to spot potential problems is a must.
3. Learn to read your individual python's mood and behaviour. If it is aggressive or in food mode then leave it be. Know when it is coming into shed as this is another time it may be likely to feel defensive.
Purchasing a burm.
Select a breeder/petshop with a good reputation, choose a healthy looking animal that is feeding well. Also worth considering is if you can find an animal in one of the reptile rescue centre's.
Introduction.
Burmese python's are incredible and fascinating creature's to keep and look after.Their impressive size and general docility means not only are they a spectacle to observe and study but that they often tolerate interaction more readily than many other species.
Average sizes of 12 to 15 feet for males and 14 to 18 for females can easily be exceeded but are a good guideline for a potential keeper to start preparations for.
It is difficult to explain the buzz and satisfaction that successfully keeping an adult burm can bring, i have yet to experience another facet of herpetoculture which is it's equal but with this in mind it has to be remembered that they are definately not for everyone.
Considerations.
Before committing to a purchase the potential customer has to ask themselve's a series of questions.
1. Do they have the room for a 8x4ft enclosure.
2. Do they have the finance's to heat, feed and pay for vetinary treatment that a giant python may require.
3. Do they have the stability to offer a 20+ year committment, no one can predict the future but job security, relationships and domestic personal situations should all be thoroughly considered at the time of purchase.
4. Do they have the knowledge and confidence to deal with an aggressive 16ft+ snake.
Set up.
All my snakes are kept in a room heated to an ambient temperature of between 78-82. From hatchlings i keep burmese pythons in appropriate sized RUBS with a statted heat mat set to 92. I use a substrate of newspaper with a water bowl in the cool end. Depending on the nature of the individual i may offer hide's, more often than not they will hide under the newspaper therefore not having to sacrifice between thermoregulation and security. I do not measure humidity, if the snake sheds in one piece then i know humidity is fine and the snake is hydrated. At around 4ft i move burms into a 4x2 vivarium, at around 7feet into a 6x3 or the viv they shall spend most of their adult life. Ahs heaters are ideal for heating large enclosure's but it is down to the individual to research what is best for them and their set up.
Feeding.
Young and juvenile burms can be fed every 4 to 5 days and have the capacity to digest meals larger than the standard guidelines for other species. A burmese python will do the majority of it's growing in the first couple of years of it's life, after the onset of sexual maturity the growth rate will slow considerably and so should the amount you feed. An adult burm may only require feeding 4 to 6 months of the year on larger prey items. Let the appearance of the snake guide you, if it is too lean feed more, overweight reduce the frequency and size of the prey. Do not be fooled by the snake acting hungry, feeding response is hardwired into burmese python's it doesn't mean that they always require feeding.
If you overfeed your pet fatty deposits will build up internally, putting pressure on the internal organs and leading to significantly shorter lifespans than should be expected.
The "stunting" of burmese python's is also possible by greatly reducing the availability of prey to the animal in the early years of it's life. If this is something a new owner is considering then a burmese python is not for them, it is detrimental to the snake's health and unethical.
Tap training/ Food association.
Do not use your burmese python as dustbin for the food other snakes have not eaten. Not only is this detrimental to the snake's health but it can lead to an incredibly food orientated animal which is difficult to interact with and potentially dangerous.
To help avoid this tap training can be initiated from as soon as a hatchling begins to calm down and stop being bitey. It is where the keeper rubs the head or flanks of the snake with their hand or a hook so the python knows it is to be handled and not fed.
Safety and good practice.
Size and owner stupidity can combine to make a Burms a dangerous animal to own, simply protocols and common sense can eliminate nearly all danger.
1. Make sure you use at least a viv lock. An escaped burm is a danger to domestic pets and children. Even the death of a ginger child could be enough to jeopordise hobbyist's future enjoyment. Remember a 20kg python is more than capable of pushing the runners out of the viv and escaping so extra attention should be paid to this area of viv security.
2. Keep all pythons seperate except for breeding attempts. This eliminates the majority of dangers come feeding time. Co habitting has no benefit to the python's at all. WIth experience co habitting may be an area you wish to explore but a fundamental grasp of the basics and ability to spot potential problems is a must.
3. Learn to read your individual python's mood and behaviour. If it is aggressive or in food mode then leave it be. Know when it is coming into shed as this is another time it may be likely to feel defensive.
Purchasing a burm.
Select a breeder/petshop with a good reputation, choose a healthy looking animal that is feeding well. Also worth considering is if you can find an animal in one of the reptile rescue centre's.
