I believe the thermostat you mention is a straight ON/OFF type with an additional timer built in. This won't be suitable for any basking lamp as it will be pulsing the light on and off. Any form of lamp needs to be controlled via a dimming thermostat. There is one alternative, which may work depending on the distance from the lamp to the substrate below, and that is a 35w small nano halogen lamp. https://www.reptiles.swelluk.com/zoo-med-nano-35w-halogen-heat-lamp/ This could be used on the timer as a direct heat source in the day, but you would need to monitor the temperatures carefully to ensure the daytime thermal gradient is maintained. If it get too warm then a dimmer stat will be needed.

I wouldn't have thought that you would need both mats and lamps in the enclosure. Some will recommend that you don't provide any heat at night, given that most houses remain above 18c at night, and it could be a couple of degrees warmer in the confines of the vivarium. The lamp will need a guard to stop the snake touching it as these run hot.

UV for corns - yes, although people do keep them without, they will benefit from having access to UV. Most units are tubes, so you will need a fitting and tube that provides the right percentage of UV. A ballpark 7% UV tube and reflector kit will set you back £30-£35 for a small 8w T5 kit to around £60 if something a little more powerful is needed. I'll let others offer their opinions, but I use the 30cm 8w T5 tubes in my Bairds rat snake's viv and it does the job. I am not aware of any product that provides adequate heating and UV in one unit.

Have a read of the sticky post at the top of the snake section - it might help with some ideas

 

you would need to monitor the temperatures carefully to ensure the daytime thermal gradient is maintained. If it get too warm then a dimmer stat will be needed.

I've purchased two separate temp/hydrometers to monitor both ends of the enclosure

 

This answer is for your 3rd question: UVB lights won't hurt your snake and they may also increase their activity or coloration, but snakes can be perfectly healthy without the aid of special UVB lighting. If you choose to provide UVB to your snake, make sure the snake cannot get within 12 inches of the bulb. Do not keep it on for more than 12 hours a day.

 

Thanks for your comprehensive reply Malc.

Being a bit stupid here perhaps, but when you refer to "straight on/off" as opposed to "dimmable" is this about providing a slower on and off over a period of time, rather than light on (full) or light off?

If so, do these dimmable units have adjustable/recommended periods for this period?

I've read numerous conflicting opinions on the need for heat mat AND basking area. We've had the heating mat on a constant 27C until now, on the advice of the pet shop, and not noticed any problems. Perhaps I would be fine continuing to use the heat mat on this constant temperature, and just having a UVB light on a 10/12 hour on/off (not dimmable) function?

Along with the obvious desire for our snake's health and wellbeing, we also want to be able to light its viv so we can see it. Maybe the UVB tube is the way to do this during the day?

I've seen units with two bulb outputs, and red night lights, so would it work to have a UVB light on during the day then a red light on in the evening/night - again, so we can see the enclosure?

Hope I'm explaining myself sufficiently here!! lol

Chris

 

First off, you don't need a mat and a basking lamp for a corn. Having a mat at the opposite end prevents the snake from having a cool end and therefore a thermal gradient.
You just need the basking lamp, on for 12 hours a day.
It needs to be controlled to prevent overheating.
A lamp needs to be controlled by a dimming thermostat. An on/off one will mean the light is flashing on and off and will a) stress the snake and b) blow the lamp in a week.
A dimmer gradually reduces or increases the output from the bulb so that the heat is kept constant.

 

Thanks Roben. The viv is 14.5" high, so if the tube was fixed to the top it would be more than 12" from the substrate. Any light solution I go with would definitely be on a circadian timer - whether it's baking lamp or UV lamp.

Would I need to put a grill over the bulb, whichever lamp I go for?

C

 

Awesome, thanks both!

I've gone with a UV lamp on a timer initially, but will probably replace the mat with a basking lamp on a dimmer thermostat, as you suggest, in time.

Appreciate the help and advice!

 

It it helps, we recently upgraded out corn snake from a basking lamp to a uv lamp and ceramic heat emmiter.
These are controled via a Microclimate EVO thermostat. This warms and "cools" the vivarium throughout the course of a day and the light comes on and goes off automatically.
Katy (the corn) seems to really like it. We put in the Arcadia shadedweller pro light as it is only 8w. Put a hide directly under it (and the CHE) which rasies the basking spot up a bit so she can get more UV if she likes. The light is between the left "wall" and the CHE as we figured this also gives a nice light gradiant throughout the vivarium.

 

Another thingyou should know that Corn snakes will be able to reach the top of their enclosure without decorations to climb on so the basking lamp must be surrounded by a guard.

 

This is the third thread in which you post meaningless advice... Look at the picture posted above... Oh look the heater is guarded !!

I think the OP knows what they are doing, so please stop spouting on with the obvious :bash: