Reptile Forums banner

Crested geckos & Java Wood - Varnish?

5.4K views 30 replies 6 participants last post by  ginnerone  
#1 ·
Hey all!

I need some advice..

I have java wood in most of my cresties tanks, and tbh a few of them are going a little black in a few places, being a worrier and reading this can be harmful have washed it off but it seems stained so I want to remove them and bleach them, cook them and varnish them.

So, I have been advised it's Yacht Varnish, and I wanted to check with the RFUK posse...

I want to do this this week, so any advice would be appreciated,

Thanks,

Jac x
 
#30 ·
The what I hate all these shortened lingo terms!!!
 
#28 ·
I was an RYA Instructor and BCU as well, Ive also served my time with varnishing the damn things did quite a few in large hangers mainly transatlantic challengers down at The Hamble, been very sick on the damn stuff too even with masks on. When you doing a whole yacht you get some bloody fumes I can tell you!!!
 
#26 ·
Right, after taking out all the java wood as some of it was getting quite bad, I thoroughly cleaned two pieces in very hot soapy water, put in the oven for an hour on gas mark 3 to dry and aired for a couple of days, I have applied the first coat!

I made sure it went in all the cracks and holes, and it's drying quite quick. It says I can apply the second coat within 24 hours.

It doesn't smell that bad, but then I enjoy painting, and don't mind the smells, although I did it in the dining room with the patio doors open, which are still open, away from all reptiles. (The turps on the other hand smells bloody horrible!)

So two bits have the first coat, and I can't see it not working, the yacht varnish is pretty tough and obviously very waterproof, so quite excited to see how it turns out.

Also, I can't see why they won't be able to climb on it, the wood is an uneven surface and once it has been in for a week or two, the residue from the water will help, after all, they manage on glass ok!

I know it will be a couple of weeks before I can use them, but I don't mind, if a job's worth doing, you might as well do it properly, plus I don't want solvent poisoned lizards!

So woop! Thought I'd try it, and thanks for the advice guys :)

Just thought I'd update. :)
 
#22 ·
LMFAO, i have a few RYA and BCU quals, havent used them for over 12 yrs mind so i don't even know if they are still valid or where the certificates are LMFAO., i do remember taking my mate clean out with the boom whilst tacking though, funny as hell lol, although i did turtle it shortly after showing off hahaha.
 
#19 ·
As someone said, yatch varnish if applied correctly will last years. Yes it can flake and peel, but using it on a piece of wood doesn't compare to using it on a boat. For a start a boat is open to the elements, sun, wind, salt water etc etc. Its also being banged, scratched, stood on etc etc.
In a viv situation it will be fine:2thumb:

P.S. I am a qualified Royal yatching Association Dinghy sailing instructor, Power boat instructor, Safety boat lvl 2 officer and an assistant wind surfing instructor:whistling2:
 
#20 ·
As someone said, yatch varnish if applied correctly will last years. Yes it can flake and peel, but using it on a piece of wood doesn't compare to using it on a boat. For a start a boat is open to the elements, sun, wind, salt water etc etc. Its also being banged, scratched, stood on etc etc.
In a viv situation it will be fine:2thumb:

P.S. I am a qualified Royal yatching Association Dinghy sailing instructor, Power boat instructor, Safety boat lvl 2 officer and an assistant wind surfing instructor:whistling2:
Wow your super qualified to varnish wood then LMFAO.
 
#18 ·
If you are going to yacht varnish then you should consider baking first to ensure any mank is removed from inside the wood first.
And as for the peeling comment, it's varnish....for yachts! It's designed for boats that stay in water for very long periods of time. I'm sure they wouldn't sell a product if they weren't sure about its reliability and they definately wouldn't sell a product if everyone went back for a refund after a few weeks because their boats are rotten. Rant over!

Just make sure you leave your wood for a few weeks to air.
 
#17 ·
Hmm, could try that too, but then wouldn't it just go back to being mouldy after another month?

This is my point really, it's not laziness, it's the health of my lizards...

Thanks for that, I will try that! Er what Gas Mark is that? :blush:
 
#14 ·
Its up to you at end of day Jac personally I'd just scrub in anti bac and wash off
 
#15 ·
Fair enough, I just thought it would look ok.

Will get some pics of the mould up in a bit.

Cheers for all the help guys :)
 
#12 ·
You've obviously never sailed then its tougher than normal varnish but will still break down really can't see the point in covering natural wood which is harmless with soething which could be and also making surface potentially more slippery which isn't good when they are in shed
 
#9 ·
I really wouldnt bother either change the wood or just stick with it, why ontroduce a chemical which will gradually break down and peel which can then be ingested, they have survived countless years on wood but they make crap sailors!
 
#13 ·
Java wood is bloody expensive Nic, and to be honest, maybe I should look up the mould on it as I am sure I read about someones Beardie inhaling the black stuff and becoming very ill...

BUT I do not know what type the black mould is.

Also, they do sail, I have seen them :whistling2:

:gasp: Yacht varnish is designed 'not to break down' if done correctly it'll out last the reptiles!!! :whistling2:
I would hope so! If I am going to spend ÂŁ8 on a tin and apply two-three coats after cleaning and bleaching etc and 3 weeks to dry/air..

You've obviously never sailed then its tougher than normal varnish but will still break down really can't see the point in covering natural wood which is harmless with soething which could be and also making surface potentially more slippery which isn't good when they are in shed
I understand this, but in the wild the air ventilation is better so I am assuming the trees don't tend to rot as quick..

How do you know it's harmless? Like I said I have no idea what type it is, just some black spotting which rubs off, and tbh, my cresties have little hides, terracotta pots, bits of bark and a water bowl, a couple never even had a terracotta pot before I got Java wood and I have never seen them have a problem with shedding.

So you're suggesting I leave it? Should I remove the wood, clean/sand it down and put it back?
 
#10 ·
See them every day but there again I restore them as a living :)
 
#5 · (Edited)
Ya safe with Yacht varnish, just make sure that the wood is dust dry and after giving the wood a couple of coats let it dry 100%.​
Rub over the varnished wood with fine sandpaper or wirewool to give it a key then give another final varnish and again let it dry out 100% before putting it back in the viv :2thumb:

Don't varnish in the same room as the vivs/reptiles.


WILKO'S sell a good Yacht Varnish that is IDEAL for the job, and its much cheaper too.

A QUICK TIP... If varnishing something all over such as branches (that need varnish all over them).

Screw a small curtain hook in one end of the object, tie some string to the curtain hook and hang from a doorway or garage etc allowing it to hand freely.

This allows ya to varnish everywhere all at once plus its easier to varnish.

After its dried just take out the curtain hook and its ready to use. :2thumb:
 
G
#2 ·
yacht varnish is ok, as long as you air it it should be fine but make sure there is no smell left on it (can take quite up to a month)

also it can go slightly yellow under UV light (shouldn't be too much of a problem with java wood :lol2:)

Hope this helps

Chris
 
#3 ·
That does, I just didn't want to buy random varnish for it to have toxins, like silicone.

I will be thoroughly cleaning and sanding it before varnishing, and then leaving to dry and air for a week or two :)

Thanks dude x