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Leopard Gecko White for days!! help!!

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9K views 11 replies 4 participants last post by  wilkinss77  
#1 ·
Hi, I'm new on here and needed help. I got a new gecko last thursday and he seemed okay. He's settled in quite quickly, eating daily, drinking, I have a moist hide for him (i did have moss in there but changed it to just a wet paper towel which I change, little logs to climb on and hide under but on the saturday after getting him he seemed to be going white/grey. very pale. he's still eating and doing fine, still getting used to his viv but climbs over my hand and eating good... But he's still pale/ white since saturday. I'm worried as I thought he was shedding but it;s been5 days. his behavoir seems okay and he's happy hunting for crickets... it it just taking a while to shed or could it be something else?

originally i did use straw pellets as substrate but changed to reptile carpet as its easier. I have a green heat lamp during the day at 29C is and 22 at the cool side, a heat mat at 33C - 32C during the day and down to around 23/24C of a night which he likes to lay on when not in his hid... everything seems okay. I'm just worried.

I know it's not the hide So could it be the temp or humidity or some kind of illness... i'm worried about the guy
 
#2 ·
Hi, I'm new on here and needed help. I got a new gecko last thursday and he seemed okay. He's settled in quite quickly, eating daily, drinking, I have a moist hide for him (i did have moss in there but changed it to just a wet paper towel which I change, little logs to climb on and hide under but on the saturday after getting him he seemed to be going white/grey. very pale. he's still eating and doing fine, still getting used to his viv but climbs over my hand and eating good... But he's still pale/ white since saturday. I'm worried as I thought he was shedding but it;s been5 days. his behavoir seems okay and he's happy hunting for crickets... it it just taking a while to shed or could it be something else?

originally i did use straw pellets as substrate but changed to reptile carpet as its easier. I have a green heat lamp during the day at 29C is and 22 at the cool side, a heat mat at 33C - 32C during the day and down to around 23/24C of a night which he likes to lay on when not in his hid... everything seems okay. I'm just worried.

I know it's not the hide So could it be the temp or humidity or some kind of illness... i'm worried about the guy
Both the substrate & temps are wrong, & the heating method. He needs 35c at the basking spot & no heat at all at night- & you really need a basking lamp for that, not a mat. Both of those substrates are very bad- leos need a loose substrate they can dig in, please read this: Loose substrates & the myth of gut compaction.
As for him turning pale, are you sure he's not shedding?
 
#3 ·
Your setup seems confused and muddled, and the substrate choice is very poor for the species.


It could well be shed, and because the conditions in the viv arent right its taking a lot longer to shed than it should.


Basking temp, substrate, heat mat all need sorting out. If you are using a basking lamp you should not also have a heat mat (and heat mats are poor performers anyway, especially in a viv with any decent size to it).
What are you doing about UV?
 
#4 · (Edited)
I was told they absorb heat through their belly's so i though a heating mat would be best during the night. the mat is typically at 33C during the day. Using a heat lamp won't let him absorb heat through his belly as i'm told they're not like other reptiles that do from above. I don't want to make it too hot.

It can get quite cold of a night down to 17C so the heat mat is used just to get the floor to around 22 so he's comfortable and does enjoy laying on of a night.

i use vitamin and calcium supplements when feeding.
most i've seen use reptile carpet and though it would be easiest.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sou...w-pellets_107377805.html&psig=AOvVaw1nTODOP7RAKiRziBTFKKq2&ust=1558087853936662 thats his old substrate which was given as he said it won't harm luffy if he happens to eat it and allows him to bury and keep comfortable. I got the mat as most seem to use one.
the heat mat was more for the night as it's when he basks. with the lamp alone I felt the floor temp was too low and the lamp at 35C on its own was too bright and would be bad for his eyes.

The temp i was told not to go above 33 as it could become too hot
 
#6 ·
I was told they absorb heat through their belly's so i though a heating mat would be best during the night. the mat is typically at 33C during the day. Using a heat lamp won't let him absorb heat through his belly as i'm told they're not like other reptiles that do from above.
It can get quite cold of a night down to 17C so the heat mat is used just to get the floor to around 22 so he's comfortable and does enjoy laying on of a night.
i use vitamin and calcium supplements when feeding.
most i've seen use reptile carpet and though it would be easiest.
the heat mat was more for the night as it's when he basks. with the lamp alone I felt the floor temp was too low and the lamp at 35C on its own was too bright and would be bad for his eyes
None of that is correct. They absorb heat through their bellies just as well via a rock heated by a lamp. The lamp won't hurt its eyes any more than the sun does in the wild. Night temps don't matter because it's freezing cold at night where they come from. Carpet stops them from digging and that's why you need a loose substrate.
 
#5 · (Edited)
And for the colour, i've seen a few on here that are quite similar that aren't shedding. maybe it's more of the natural colour that's just gotten brighter... since he seems healthy it could just be taking a while or his colours just got brighter and more noticable
https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/336292297165881328/?autologin=true similar to this but the white seems brighter and there's more grey
 
#7 · (Edited)
"In nature, leopard geckos will emerge at night when it's not as hot and will lie on warm rocks which were heated by the sun throughout the day. To mimic this, you will need to lower your tank's temperature to 70-75°F. (21 - 23C) Your leopard gecko will, however, need a warm spot to lie on."

is that incorrect? it's what most websites say. from the RSPCA to thebeardeddragon.org and even some forums on leopard geckos that 28-30C is ideal for viv temp and a heated mat at night to ensure temps don't drop below 18 and in replace of the lamp so it isn't bright at night.
The heat mat isn't to heat the tank it's just to give him a bit of a warm spot at night that he can choose to use or not (which has has every night).
They say leopard gecko's know themselves well with regards to temperature and food. him choosing to come out of his hide of a night and lay on the mat of a night after feeding and exploring around tells me he likes it I think
https://www.rspca.org.uk/adviceandwelfare/pets/other/leopardgecko
http://www.thebeardeddragon.org/leopard-gecko/leopard-gecko-habitat.php


I may change his substrate to something better that he can dig at. some king of safe sand/soil
 
#8 · (Edited)
OK, firstly, "beardeddragon.org" is a dead site, it has been for years, and the information on it is everything from out of date to actually harmful....
RSPCA, well intentioned as it may be, are not particularly knowledgeable about reptiles in general... dogs, cats, hedgehogs...sure... reptiles not so much...

You also need to look at when that information was last updated, in the past decade reptile care has made some huge leaps forward.


Secondly, read through the link about substrate choice and impaction, impaction is something that has been greatly misunderstood for years, and in the last 5 years or so people have started to understand the actual genuine cause behind it when it comes to loose substrate. Its not the substrate, its the environment and provision given to the animal that then leaves the animal in a position that it cant properly deal with loose substrates, which it normally would (Cold blooded animals have evolved in a way that they are literally keyed into a specific environment/habitat... if thats not spot on, then they dont work properly.... easiest way to explain it)

If you are providing proper temperatures, lighting, hydration and diet (as you should be for the best care of the animal) then loose substrates (assuming you choose one thats a decent representation of their natural "substrate" in the wild) arent going to cause problems.

Leos should be setup so it mimics their wild habitat, you should have flat (real) stone in there positioned under a basking lamp that runs during daylight hours. You do not need night time heating unless the temp in your house drops below 16C at night, which is uncommon in a house with central heating.
The stones will sit and absorb heat/energy and then slowly release.
Leos are crepuscular, so most active as the sun starts to set and rise, meaning they dont get full exposure to sunlight but they DO get exposure, you have to consider that in the way you light the viv its in.
They are also evolved to be highly effective at absorbing UV light, because they have a limited timeframe in which they are exposed to it, but its still a key part of their biology.

So, with that in mind;

Basking lamp setup in a viv that is minimum size of 3ft long, 1.5 ft deep/high (preferably 2ft to give better height and greater floor space)

Basking lamp at one end, with a small UV light over the basking area.
Lights set to be on during the day only, and temperature controlled so the basking area (which should have lots of natural stone in to sit on and bask on) is roughly 35C during the day (SURFACE temperature, not ambient...important distinction...the two temps will NOT be the same as each other)... this will start to drop off once the lamp goes off, the rocks retain the heat, and viola - one natural basking setup created to mimic the same way that a Leo has naturally evolved to bask and get low level UV exposure.

Multiple hides in, and heavily shaded areas in the viv, the warm hide should be setup near the basking area so it to is warmed and retains some of that warmth as you go into night hours. Sand/Soil based substrate, pressed down so it creates a firm surface but can also be dug into (there are prepackaged ones, you can make your own... lots of choice here, I personally favour a clay based soil mix with fine sand, compressed down so it will dry on top and give a solid layer, bits in the shade will be softer and it can dig into them and it will also then help maintain slightly better humidity where the substrate layer retains some moisture)

You may well think its enjoying the heat mat at night, and it probably is, but that cycle of warmth and then cold at night is part of its biological cycle, its evolved to function with that set of parameters.
It will like the warmth because its cold-blooded, so its instinct tell it to seek out heat sources. Doesnt mean it should be doing that at 3am in the morning when the rest of its biology (like some of the enzymes involved in digestion for example...) then require a temperature dip to properly function.

I'll leave it at that, what you choose to do is up to you, but the point I am making is this.

Husbandry and care moves on, knowledge about these animals has greatly improved and understanding more about these animals biology has also meant we are in a better position to provide an environment in which that animal doesnt just survive, but can actually thrive as it works with the animal, rather than just meeting the minimum requirements to keep it alive.
 
#10 ·
Excellent post



This is an excellent post. Most new keepers (and the shops that sell the reptile to them) will do their research online. Unfortunately this advice is never updated to match current knowledge and husbandry methods. And things have moved on enormously. I know that advice I myself was giving ten years ago, with the best of intentions, is now wildly off the mark.

It would be good IMO if this were made a sticky. :2thumb:
 
#9 ·